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17 Mach IV casings | ![]() | ||
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Posted by: Phil Imamura ® 04/07/2002, 01:21:39 Author Profile |
FYI: My first time forming 17 M4 casings.
I formed some Mach IV casings from 221FB and noticed when I ran them through the Redding Form #1 die, the casing mouth are not exactly square. When I finished forming the casings I trimmed the casings just to square things up. I checked the neck thickness and found the neck thickness varies quite a bit, so I turned the necks (minimal) just to even out the neck tension (using Wilson neck and seating dies). Is is this normal when forming M4 casings??? |
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Re: 17 Mach IV casings | ![]() | ||
Re: 17 Mach IV casings -- Phil Imamura | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Dan C ® 04/07/2002, 08:20:25 Author Profile |
Not too unusual Phil, especially when using the Redding form die. The RCBS form set is not as bad in this regard. But, not a big deal. I generally try to wait until the cases are fireformed before trimming as long as they do not exceed my chamber length.........otherwise they will probably be slightly out of square again after firing. Dan C |
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what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? | ![]() | ||
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Posted by: Lt. Dan ® 04/07/2002, 17:55:10 Author Profile |
I'm trying to break in a new .17 Rem VSS. The first thing that got done was to clean the heck out of it with Butch's Bore shine, then some polishing with Flitz, more Butch's, then USP bore paste, and more Butch's. Then I shot low charges behind the naked 25 grain Hornady and cleaned every round x 5. Then groups of 2 and cleaned x 3. After this, looking into the muzzle the lands have a gold color and the rest of the bore looked black. Wet patches came out clean, and dry ones passed OK with a trace of black sometimes. Sweets and a nylon brush then patches came out clean. I polished it again with more Flitz, then USP paste, then cleaned with Butch's. No change in the patches - clean when wet and sometimes a few scant traces of black on dry patches. The bore still looks about the same. Since I'm such a rookie with the .17 Rem I don't know what to think about a bore that looks fouled but without any blue on patches. So far the shooting has only been at 50 yards to get on paper with the scope, and the holes were round. Is this pretty normal for a factory number? What should I expect and how long to break it in? Also, I'm considering using moly bullets if this thing ever gets broken in. But now I'm starting to hear about using Lee wax. All opinions are welcome. Thanks in advance. (don't post much, but do a lot of lurking and learning) dan Modified by Lt. Dan at Sun, Apr 07, 2002, 17:57:23 |
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Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? | ![]() | ||
Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? -- Lt. Dan | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Nailman 04/07/2002, 20:22:20 |
Tell me about Lee Wax? I never heard about it. |
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about Lee wax (but the bigger question still stands) | ![]() | ||
Re: Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? -- Nailman | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Lt. Dan ® 04/07/2002, 21:01:19 Author Profile |
I hadn't heard of it either, until I read a GGVG post today that mentioned it in passing. There wasn't much info on it, other than it supposedly gives moly-like results, is benign, is easily applied and cleaned up. Sounds almost another magic bullet, doesn't it? It's said to greatly reduce 17 cal fouling. Other than that, I don't know what it is or from whence it comes. However, the post said Todd Kindler really likes it, so that might be your point of contact right there. dan Modified by Lt. Dan at Sun, Apr 07, 2002, 21:02:24 |
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Coatings | ![]() | ||
Re: about Lee wax (but the bigger question still stands) -- Lt. Dan | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Glenn 04/07/2002, 22:50:58 |
There is a simple home brewed coating that does help some on the fouling problem.I will try to find it. I just moved so finding it might take some time. |
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Re: Coatings | ![]() | ||
Re: Coatings -- Glenn | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Alex M. Clarke ® 04/08/2002, 15:45:29 Author Profile |
Dan: Years ago someone told me that moly and 17s make good bed partners. I've never shot a 17 that wasn't mollied. Maybe that's not the way to go, but has worked for me. Like Jim says, shoot it and enjoy! If it's accurate, that's fine. If Sweets doesn't cause "green" there just ain't any copper. A.
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the thoughts are appreciated | ![]() | ||
Re: Coatings -- Glenn | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Lt. Dan ® 04/09/2002, 21:19:41 Author Profile |
I'm now half wondering, half thinking that if the bore color is OK with Sweets, then it's probably funcitional. dan Modified by Lt. Dan at Tue, Apr 09, 2002, 21:31:37 |
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Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? | ![]() | ||
Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? -- Lt. Dan | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: jim saubier 04/08/2002, 08:54:15 |
I've been down the same road. Shoot the thing, cleaning at regular intervals and enjoy it. You can likely clean on that barrel until you wear it out from the cleaning rod. Work up a load and shoot it. With my factory barreled .17 Rem, I cleaned after 20 rounds and always got copper. It didn't bother me so much because the gun was accurate. I also never had bullets come apart on the way to the target, from a rough/dirty bore. |
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thanks | ![]() | ||
Re: Re: what's normal fouling for a factory .17 Rem? -- jim saubier | Top of thread | Archive |
Posted by: Lt. Dan ® 04/09/2002, 21:30:22 Author Profile |
I'm planning to take you up on your advice. And when I figure it out I'll report back here. dan |
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