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-   -   lube before or after core seating (http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28739)

P1ZombieKiller 05-23-2015 10:38 PM

lube before or after core seating
 
Do you guys lube your jackets before or after core seating? Or both?

MFG_BOP 05-24-2015 03:35 AM

I am gonna tell what works best for me. For 1000 jackets (.224) I drop into the glass jar 1.5 grain of pure lanolin and tumble for an hour. The jackets come out with an extremely fine coat of lanolin, almost imperceptible. Makes the jackets stick inside the die (mine is carbide) and can be pushed out without trouble. None gets stuck in the punch. Thats for core seat.
For point up stage, 1.5 or so grains of lanolin again so the jackets dont get stuck and also are easy to come out. I try to be minimalist with lube so the final bullets at point up stage dont fold over and they match the internal diameter of the die.

MIBULLETS 05-24-2015 11:15 PM

You really have to lube before core seating if you don't want harder ejection and premature die wear. Some people do skip the second lube befor point up though.

hotrodglock 05-27-2015 02:20 PM

For my Neimi carbide 6.5 dies, I use just 1.5 grains of lube for a half bucket of the Sta-Moly 1.325 long jackets (450 pcs) I use Dr. Blackmon’s lanolin based lube in a square glass jar with round hoops epoxied onto the corners so it runs on my tumbler for one hour. More lube than this and my jackets stick to my core seat punch instead of inside the die. After I seat my cores I re-tumble them for 20-30 minutes to redistribute the lube without adding any more. I then let them normalize a day or two before point up. With this procedure I can count on the bullets to extract easily from my point up die and I never get folds or creases on my ogives. BTW, I make a 142.5 gr bullet which gives me a one cal. or about .260 air gap forward of the lead line after point up. I started out using 2.5 grains of lube and this was a problem for both the core seating and point up. I have had to re-learn the lube requirements from using the steel dies I started with as carbide requires much less lube. These dies make BT bullets and Jeff at Sta-Moly Inc. built my point up punches for my 9 degree x.150 long bullets that forms a .005 rebate. After I am done with point up I trim the meplats evenly using the ogive to reference off of then close the points with the Hoover point closer die. I then clean the lube off by polishing in a vibratory tumbler with untreated corn cobs. Last thing before loading is to apply HBN coating (from David Tubb) I use these for 600-1000 yd. F-class open competition and they shoot better than anything else I can buy, including the hard to find Berger 140 hybrids. I get .0005 over bore just ahead of the BT and the bearing surface just behind the ogive is .0001 over bore diameter. This is the process I have worked out and I am sure I will learn more as I go but for now this works great. Not sure how many of you have used the Sta-Moly jackets but they work great and as long as I can get these my four buckets of 1.325 J-4 jackets will set on my shelf. I don't have any connection to Sta-Moly but Jeff has been great with help and advice and I could not ask for a better guy to deal with. Just my humble opinion.


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