[rick w.]

I really do not think your request is too far out of line of pulling the existing barrel off(oem or not) unscathed. Technique/materials is key.

I too have grown up reading about Mauser actions/barreled being separated with great duress, one hears of heat; adhesives, machining sacrificial pieces(barrel shoulders). In context, most these Mausers have not seen the light of day for 80 years, rust/corrosion creeps up one might say. Odd how power equates to different people, some think 80ft/lbs is a terrible amount, others don't.............instruments can help that. Static torque and impact torque are two different things.

Most of the Remington 700's in the last couple of decades feature an adhesive for some reason, most adhesives break down at 250-300F. I personally disdain at more heat than that; too easy to let the heat get away from you.

In talking with a couple of current guys, they frown with Browning and some other Asian actions(Howa was mentioned as tight in this limited conversation fwiw). Guess one never knows until you fit the stuff up and lean on it a little. Some Kroil or likewise seems always to help.

Oddly enough, barrel torque used to kinda be like torque on a flywheel; stout, but I think that is changing to less. I was counseled early on that about 80-90lb was about right with a nominal 1" 16 thread, anti-seized shank. I still keep that relative number for hunting rifles but less for target/varmint rifles fwiw.

I am not sure but not too sure of a governing faction managing what a Gunsmith is here in the US or not. Several schools in Pa and Colo; but know little about them other than some of the old smiths that are now instructors there.

Some of the things I would like to know about the guy doing barrel work: Most guys come with close trusted references, so some is overkill.

Has he done one of these before? not just "a" barrel, but this type of action/barrel?

Hopefully that the CZ has some length of straight taper to clamp onto strongly. Some like Remington 700 std taper is fully tapered and tough to hold without specific barrel blocks. Obviously the straight taper block is easier to make up than the angled one.............both are boring bar/and or reamer, but one has to get the angle or slope.............right for a close fitment.

In the old days, folks would use babbit, kinda like an alloy lead; well; but not seen it for a while myself. Lead shim are an asset, but all in all, really down to it a closely fitted barrel (aluminum or steel based)bushing is it.

With that said on some really complex barrel exterors, the aluminum or steel bushing can be cut oversize, and then cast inside with a Brownell's type epoxy, steel bed comes to mind with the usual cautions on what is glued...where.

If all the guy has is a "V" vise and a rear entry wrench...........might wanna think about moving on. The better supported the barrel and action is...........the better the result for a lot of view points. There are guys that can handle a rear entry port action wrench........correctly......but usually are super experienced and stout boys themselves. Most will only use a rear port wrench on a lightly torqued action/barrel.