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Old 07-12-2022, 03:32 PM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Wet side of Washington
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I'm glad that people could follow what I was saying. When I am working on them with someone trying to learn I have had others who have had a hard time following what I was saying.

Basically, there are multiple ways to improve these triggers for use where the factory trigger is too heavy.

As a general rule, they break clean and do not have a much creep. If you do come up with one that does have more creep than you would like, I usually prefer to go with a sear engagement adjustment at the location in the top figure. That way there is no chance of cutting away too much of the sear engagement. Since you already have the drill and tap out and are set up you might as well go ahead and put in an over travel adjustment screw at the same time.

I have pretty much settled on moving the pivot point and retaining the shared sear/sear-trigger engagement spring because I want that sear/trigger engagement spring pressure to be high. That way if the safety is off and the gun is bumped, dropped, whatever the trigger is still held in engagement by a pretty stiff force. With a lighter spring the sear is not as solidly held in engagement. But that does not mean that separating the sear spring and sear-trigger engagement springs is flakey. I just think I want that engagement pressure higher and then overcome the higher force by having a longer lever. That does come at a cost of increasing the arc the trigger moves through before the sear is released though. If you like the pull weight and there is too much creep adding a sear engagement adjustment screw is really easy to put in.

I use either a thin lock nut to lock the screws or will use a drop of primer sealer or fingernail polish. My buddy I was doing these with is going to set me up with an assortment of miniature nyloc set screws instead. I think that will actually turn out to be the preferred option.

Pro tip - never ship one of these barreled actions with the trigger installed. You will break off the stud that is just silbrazed to the receiver. Also be careful about having one sitting around the shop without a stock on it. If you do break off a stud, drill and tap the receiver and put a stud in it. Use a false bolt stop to align the trigger and using some soot or inletting black slide the stripped trigger housing down and file the stud to match the hole in the trigger housing until you get the housing seated. Drill a new pin hole and you are done. Then don't do that again.

Last edited by JDHasty; 07-12-2022 at 03:58 PM.
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