#21
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If the bolt is still hard to work when it's already cocked, then it's not the ramp. That's why I suggested taking out the firing pin assembly and trying the bare bolt in the receiver. If it's smooth without the firing pin assembly, then the friction is mostly between the bolt body and the threaded shroud. If you push down on the back of the shroud (towards the trigger) while working the bolt, does the resistance change?
When cocked, there is the added spring pressure pulling on the bolt and locking lugs. If you push forward on the knob slightly does the resistance change at all? |
#22
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am going to make a different suggestion - remove the bolt and examine it for marks of a base mount screw touching and dragging on the bolt.
I had a 57M that the bolt did not open smoothly and that was the issue, it wasn't touching by much but removing a bit from the bottom of the screw resolved the issue. drover |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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This situation will also be clear if you try the bare bolt in the receiver.
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#25
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Base screws were the first things looked at.
Bolt body works freely. We did check the bolt nose to the barrel with dykem. It removed a bit of it. Looks to be as described above on the firing pin spring. After some hard looking, locking lugs are a bit of it too. It just shoots so dang good I think I will just deal with it. |
#26
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Quote:
I offered the cocking ramp issue as I remembered it as it was a concern for some earlier Cooper rifles, and I recognized that it didn't answer why the bolt was stiff in both directions. But as I stated in my earlier post, I thought that maybe others' more specific recollections about the issue than I had might be a starting point to move forward from. Maybe at least a call to Cooper today requesting information without sending them the rifle might offer some ideas concerning what they maybe have seen in the past along these same lines. -BCB
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I miss mean Tweets, competence, and $1.79 per gallon gasoline. Yo no creo en santos que orinan. Women and cats will do as they please. Men and dogs should relax and just get used to the idea. Going keyboard postal over something that you read on the internet is like seeing a pile of dog crap on the sidewalk and choosing to step in it rather than stepping around it. If You're Afraid To Offend, You Can't Be Honest - Thomas Paine |
#27
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I sent an email to Cooper earlier.
Since this was built before they purchased it from Dan, in a nut shell any and all good, bad or ugly is on me. I wanted to know what year it was built, they have no records. And, I was told all of the information/records were destroyed as that was part of the agreement of the sale. I hope to get it back from my smith and good friend. He was going to just make notes on what he found. I don’t expect him to really work on it. I will go one thing at a time. Actually left it with him so he would shoot the last of the fire form loads. Trying to lure home into the 22BR. It was always an interesting looking cartridge with great reviews from many. At this point I wouldn’t even be against trying a 20BR if I could come up with some heavy 20 bullets that had a source for the future. I actually may need some professional help, lol. A little adult supervision would not be a bad thing either. I did reach out to a fellow I have shot with for years. He has a 22BR reamer but no spec sheet. I am going to try and chase that down when I get a reamer number. I would like a no turn neck. I figure on just a skim cut to knock the high spots off as going back and turning the donut off the outside after sizing/forming should be done any way for a nice fit and fire form. Any of you gents have a reamer or print I would like to look at one for ideas. Thanks Jeff |
#28
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Coopers
Ive owned three, 22k hornet, 17 AH, and 218 bee. All were sub inch, accurate, but not exceptional. I do not recall any issues with a stiff bolt lift or bolt closing.
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