#21
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I certainly don’t have he confidence in Winchester brass that I used to.
I had bought a bunch of their WSM brass several years ago and it was worse than anything I’ve ever seen. I bought enough Hornet brass that I’m not too over concerned about losing a few here and there. I just hope that once formed I won’t see anymore issues. |
#22
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Curious here, how would a thicker cup have a benefit on a low pressure round like the Hornet/K Hornet?
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#23
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Winchester brass....
I've got all the Winchester hornet brass I need and purchased it years (7+?) ago. About 1500 cases have already been formed to 17 Ackley Hornet and a bag or two of 100 will be kept as is (22) until needed. Sad thing is we custom ordered a reamer designed specifically for WW brass and it's skinny body and fitted several barrels with it. We measured couple dozen cases out of same lot# 100 count bags and spec'ed a reamer only a couple thousandths larger. Oh well... and... our favorite ranch in Montana was sold a few years ago so gopher shooting trips are not happening anymore anyway.
Last edited by Alan in GA; 01-06-2018 at 09:56 PM. |
#24
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Quote:
I get 3475 fps out of my 20ah with 32 vmax's. it's a martini action with the falling block. if I don't use cci450's I will get primmer flow, even though I have bushed the firing pin. once you go to the khornet or the ackley hornet, I don't think I would define it as a low pressure round anymore. you did not say what action you were using, so it was just my 2 cents worth. just because it's small doesn't mean it can't create a lot of pressure.. Last edited by chuckshooter; 01-06-2018 at 10:32 PM. |
#25
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It’s a Ruger 77/22H.
I’ve seen the primer flow in a couple .223s with sloppy firing pin fit when using CCI 400s. Switched to thicker cups and problem solved. Never seen the issue in a round such as the Hornet. Was just wondering if there was any other reason. Thanks. |
#26
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I'm successfully using CCI 500 (small pistol) primers in my CZ 527 American rechambered to K hornet.
No problems and accuracy is stellar. Of course, I'm loading 1 grain under book max with both 35 grainers and 40 grainers with AA1680. No primer flow at all. I've read a bunch about small pistol primers being the cats meow in the hornet and 22K hornet. Sure works for me. Of course this lousy Winchester brass issue is annoying. But, so far it seems to be isolated to a few during fireforming for me. I've only lost one case due to a split that had been fired 5 times. No other losses so far with formed cases. I've got 2,000 pieces of this Winchester brass. Sure hope it holds up in the long run. I'd have to say the little 22K hornet is my FAVORITE round. Last edited by Screaminweasil; 01-07-2018 at 12:10 AM. |
#27
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Mine is doing pretty good fire-forming, I haven't shot many groups, mostly just playing on steel at various distances.
This is one of the better groups at 100, have shot some better and some worse. About 2950 fps. Going to get a big lot formed then load development will really start. I've got 500 right now, figured after losing a few here and there due to splits or what not, I'd have at least 400 formed. Should be enough to last me many years I hope. Last edited by VAHunter; 01-07-2018 at 11:37 PM. |
#28
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Federal 22 Hornet
Has anyone tried this new Federal TNT 22 Hornet ammo?
Curious as to the brass and how this bullet shoots in Hornet. Think it is the same bullet in 22 Mag ammo and that shoots well.... The reviews of this bullet on Midway is not "Glowing". Just wonder about this ammo and how Federals case holds up... Bill http://federalpremium.com/ammunition...tnt-green/p22d
__________________
"Burn Powder, Not Comrades"! Last edited by william t. oviatt; 02-24-2018 at 05:26 PM. |
#29
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For what it's worth, I bought a new cz 527 17HH a few months back and had several cases split identical to those shown. This was with hornady factory superformance ammo. Not reloads. Sent the rifle back to cz and they referenced it as a headspace problem and replaced it with a new one.
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#30
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Quote:
Chuck, IMHO your annealing of some of the above cases extends way too far into the body. I don't think it has anything to do with those splits, but from everything I have read, and know about annealing from my work, the color line shouldn't be that far into the body of the case. The brass anneals to the maximum in the color line region, but it tapers some into the area not discolored, IE some more of the body of those cases are softer than is suggested . I may be misunderstanding the image seen on my computer, but from what I can see, I toss this out for your safety, and nothing else. A person was selling reformed fireball brass formed from 223 with similar discoloration well below where annealing is needed, and I copied the pictures and checked with a few friends. They all stated they would be very cautious with shooting his brass in a gun due to the softening of the support section of the brass. Annealing doesn't need to go much below the shoulder / body junction, and on short cases it is more critical than say 223 length cases, and also looks worse. I may be wrong, and sorry if I am corrected by others more knowledgeable than my thoughts, but I feel compelled to suggest this as I understand it. I am sure a person with a particular gun "could" have no ill consequences with what I believe to be over annealing of the body portion, but in another gun the same over annealing may be catastrophic. |
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