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  #1  
Old 04-25-2022, 03:04 PM
Buckeye Buckeye is offline
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Default 17 Hornet annealling

What’s the secret to annealing these little boogers w/out ruining them ?
How many firings before you anneal ? And what is your method of annealing ?
I know ….. lots of questions but I think I may have ruined some of my cases already!
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Old 04-25-2022, 03:20 PM
flyrod flyrod is offline
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I would use induction--much better control than a torch. If you are getting brass already formed then you may not need to anneal for several firings. Are you getting split necks?
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2022, 03:30 PM
Buckeye Buckeye is offline
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No splits on 1st hand loads , those induction annealers are quite pricey! I wouldn’t bother but finding brass or ammo is quite the challenge here lately
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2022, 03:33 PM
Dean2 Dean2 is offline
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I annealed after forming Privi 22H brass to 17HH and before fire forming. Otherwise I would get split necks. After that I never annealed it. Had a max of 9 firings on some cases before I sold the gun. No problems with the necks splitting. I also never anneal 22H brass and some of those are over 20.

I annealed with a torch, I sat the cases in water half way up the body. If I had an induction annealer that would have been easier.
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2022, 03:34 PM
Bill K Bill K is online now
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I anneal mine the same as I do all my brass. Propane torch flame, and holding it with a small socket and rolling in the flame, and just putting flame on neck area, on the small hornet case, it will run into the shoulder just about right. You just have to test a couple and you will see.
But for way less time than larger cases.

I anneal about every third firing.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2022, 04:06 PM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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I use an Annealeez and get great results.

The rim means I cant put more than about a dozen in the hopper and have to sit there and feed the hopper, but it goes fast. Privi brass makes up into better 17 Hornet than you can purchase. The last time I was making some up I dropped a piece of brass while feeding the hopper that took a bounce and ended up in the catch pan w/brass that had been annealed. It was easy to find which one it was after firing them. It was the one with a split shoulder.
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  #7  
Old 04-25-2022, 04:12 PM
Buckeye Buckeye is offline
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I did mine similar , socket on drill in dark room , only I directed heat on neck/ shoulder area. Very faint dark red glow , than dropping in water. Discoloration seen roughly halfway down case , this worries me a bit ! Afraid I may have softened the case too far down!
How long do you keep your case in the flame ? What are you looking for as an indication?
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  #8  
Old 04-25-2022, 04:17 PM
Buckeye Buckeye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHasty View Post
I use an Annealeez and get great results.

The rim means I cant put more than about a dozen in the hopper and have to sit there and feed the hopper, but it goes fast. Privi brass makes up into better 17 Hornet than you can purchase. The last time I was making some up I dropped a piece of brass while feeding the hopper that took a bounce and ended up in the catch pan w/brass that had been annealed. It was easy to find which one it was after firing them. It was the one with a split shoulder.
How are you forming from Privi? I hear some use their bullet seating die to step down to 20 before using fl die to finish?
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  #9  
Old 04-25-2022, 04:35 PM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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I anneal Hornet cases until they just start to show any red in a semi dark room. Normally the flame is just starting to turn yellow then will turn the speed control up just a tiny bit. Turn the torch down until the flame is only about an inch long is the advice I remind myself of whenever setting up.

To form the 17 HH cases:

I can just turn the case mouth in w/my Hornady Seating Die and then run it into the Hornady FL Die and sometimes do it that way. But usually will run it into the 20 cal end of a Bullberry Double End die then the Hornady FL Die. I very rarely lose a case either way. I use both methods because my Bullberry Double Ended Die is so often loaned out.

I always finish up any reforming by sending them through a Lee Collet Die. The decapping pin will center and square the case and the collet will then form it to the mandrel. That has always resulted in cases that could be shot with great accuracy at varmints while fire forming W/IIRC 10.8 grains of 1680 & Rem 7 1/2 primers with any 20 grain bullets I have on hand. I usually use 20 GR Dogtown HPs. They open better, very reliably, than using tipped bullets with this reduced load.

Be warned the Hornady die is a brass scratching machine unless and until the bur on the bleed hole at the shoulder is dealt with. They all seem to be that way. I reached up in with a piece of 600 wet/dry sandpaper glued to a wooden swab stick and gave it a few licks then polished the heck out of the entire die by drilling out a case head and cramming a brass brush into it then coating it with Flitz and spinning the case with a cordless drill motor.

Then anneal the cases. I trim .005 IIRC over final length and cannot remember if I trimmed them before or after forming. I think after forming but would have to refer to my notebook on that.

Last edited by JDHasty; 04-25-2022 at 06:51 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-25-2022, 04:48 PM
Buckeye Buckeye is offline
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I can’t find one of those Bullberry dies or a Redding form and trim die . I am using Redding bushing die w/ comp seater .
I can’t seem to find any 22 Hornet brass to start working with !
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