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  #21  
Old 11-14-2007, 11:50 PM
george ulrich george ulrich is offline
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john, if i can remember right you are using blackmon dies you will need a little more for steel than carbide i would start at 6-8 grs. per 1000 6m.m. jackets and adjust from there. i would say a little more is better in the begining than not enough it becomes a little unnerving when a bullet gets stuck in die. george
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  #22  
Old 11-14-2007, 11:59 PM
John Parrish John Parrish is offline
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I have steel dies on order from Larry Blackmon. We're going to be starting out making 6mm bullets using a .790" J4 jacket. Thanks for the info.
John
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  #23  
Old 11-15-2007, 06:48 PM
Eric Stecker Eric Stecker is offline
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The right amount of lube is the amount that produces the result between getting the bullets stuck and deep lube lines. Sorting this out is part of the craft of bullet making and is the result of trial and error. It will not be the same for a given length when the jacket lot changes.

One rule of thumb we use is that you want the finished bullet to be longer that the jacket was when you started. For example, when you use the .790 long jackets you want the bullet to end up somewhere around .815 to .835 long (if you are making flat based 7ish tangent ogive bullets). This means that the copper is flowing forward rather than compressing. We believe this is better.

Regards,
Eric
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  #24  
Old 11-15-2007, 08:15 PM
george ulrich george ulrich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Stecker View Post
The right amount of lube is the amount that produces the result between getting the bullets stuck and deep lube lines. Sorting this out is part of the craft of bullet making and is the result of trial and error. It will not be the same for a given length when the jacket lot changes.

One rule of thumb we use is that you want the finished bullet to be longer that the jacket was when you started. For example, when you use the .790 long jackets you want the bullet to end up somewhere around .815 to .835 long (if you are making flat based 7ish tangent ogive bullets). This means that the copper is flowing forward rather than compressing. We believe this is better.

Regards,
Eric
this is absoloutly correct if material is not lengthening during point up and collapsing the jacket is sliding on the seated core. i prefer to use the minimal amount of lube i can get away with but for learning i would use a little more just to be safe. george
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  #25  
Old 03-02-2008, 11:03 PM
John Parrish John Parrish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george ulrich View Post
john, if i can remember right you are using blackmon dies you will need a little more for steel than carbide i would start at 6-8 grs. per 1000 6m.m. jackets and adjust from there. i would say a little more is better in the begining than not enough it becomes a little unnerving when a bullet gets stuck in die. george
George:

When you are adding lube to your lube jar for a fresh batch of jackets, do you wipe out any remaining lube from the previous batch, or do you add the fresh lube to what may be remaining in the jar?
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  #26  
Old 03-03-2008, 02:29 PM
Mntngoat Mntngoat is offline
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John when I tumble jackets there is sometimes enough lube left over in the jar to not require adding any more. I have never cleaned out the lube jar before adding more.
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  #27  
Old 03-03-2008, 05:56 PM
george ulrich george ulrich is offline
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john, no i do not clean remaining lube out. that being said the first time you lube jar you will need to add more to get jar coated i would at least double the amount for the first time,jackets should feel stickey when they come out . george
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  #28  
Old 03-04-2008, 03:00 AM
John Parrish John Parrish is offline
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Thanks George:

That is what I was hoping you'd say.

John
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  #29  
Old 03-21-2008, 02:45 AM
J. Valentine J. Valentine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim saubier View Post
Castor oil and lanolin is what we use. We mixed up a pretty big batch and then put it into large syringes or into small tupperware containers. I am thinking that we used a 1:1 ration but would have to confirm that with my notes. For weighing we use a piece of wax paper on a Denver Instruments xx123 scale after resetting the tare with the piece of paper on the scale. The lube is then transferred to the 1 gallon glass tumble jug that has paddles glued to the inside to aid in tumbling.

We did use heat to mix our lube evenly, i believe in the microwave actually.

Silicone oil, not for me. how do you intend on degreasing your bullets to get it off. You will need some pretty nasty solvents to break down and remove the Silicone oil - I believe.
\
For core squirting lube, RCBS water soluble case lube is what we use. Our cores are rinsed and boiled using a detergent to help clean and oxidize them once they have been formed by the squirt die.
Silicon Oil is very disolvable in any liquid hydrocarbon but quite water resistant. It is a very good release agent and has a low surface tension which allows it to spread out over a surface much better than mineral oil or water. It spreads dramaticly under pressure.
It posesses poor lubrication between steel on steel but good lubrication between Bronze on steel or Zink on steel .
It can attack rubber products to some degree.
Would be difficult to remove with water and detergents however.
Thats why I clean my bullets in liquid hydrocarbon Shelite before moly coating.

Last edited by J. Valentine; 03-21-2008 at 03:58 AM.
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  #30  
Old 03-21-2008, 06:13 AM
georgeld georgeld is offline
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Ok, the lube is taken care of now.
Once you've got the bullets made.
How do you clean them up?
Do you polish them? Some do, some don't. I much prefer polished if its possible.

What with, how, how far?
Thank you
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