#31
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If you are going to shoot the bullets without coating then just a good rub off in an old towl or soft cloth is ok. The thing with polishing in tumblers and such is that you are risking some meplat and base edge damage when you do it. Some tumbling systems are good some are not. You have just bought an expensive die system and done your best to produce a precision bullet so only tumble if you have to for coating etc. You should START with nice clean jackets so no extra polishing should be required. If you are going to store the bullets for a fair while until you use them , store in sealed plastic containers. Don't immerse finished bullets in any liquid cleaner if you can avoid it as it is not a good idea to get moisture inside the jacket that may not evaporate easily. If you intend to coat the bullets , Moly Danzac or whatever you will need to clean off any swaging lubricant. I use Shellite (( Liquid Hydrocarbon ) White gas or Coleman Fuel) . which will evaporate quickly and not leave any residue. Other hydrocarbons Like Turps have additives that leave residues Metho also. Rubb the bullets off as above and wash twice in a clean Liquid Hydrocarbon . Place in clean trays to dry , out in the sun or use a hair dryer to speed up evaporation but not closer than 12 inches . Do not use any paint stripper guns or open flames as you could melt some bullet cores. Leave for at least an hour to dry. Don't handle with your hands , Coat as soon as dry. Last edited by J. Valentine; 03-21-2008 at 06:56 AM. |
#32
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lanolin, really is a hard way to lube bullet jackets......
I was taught a different method that is not messy at all, and idiot proof with no complicated formulas by Steve Chernicky, that built the Olympic 22 rifles and Gene Harwood, former NBRSA director (Gene had over a many, many sets of bullet making dies).
Lee sizing wax (the white stuff that is $2.00 per tube)mixed 50/50 with water in the micro wave oven. Heat wax just enough to where it will mix with warm water. YOU DO NOT WANT THE WAX TO BOIL!!! Let wax sit up till it becomes firm. Now comes the easy part. You will need a one gallon plastic jug, like the ones that you serve iced tea in or like condiments come in for restaurants. You will dip your finger in the wax and fill the first joint on your index finger full of wax. Smear the wax around the inside walls of the jug. Put about 1/2 bucket of jackets in the one gallon jug and put the top back on the jug. Spin the bullets around the inside edges of the jug, which will act as a centrifuge, the process will take 60 seconds at most. Dump the jackets out on a paper towel. You want the jackets to look a little milky, with no globs on the jackets. If you see globs, but the jackets back in the jug, add a few more jackets and you will dilute the wax on the bullet jackets. If the jackets do not look milky in color, add a slight amount of wax on the edges of the bucket walls and centrifuge the bullet jackets once again for 60 seconds. Now for the very best part, for your guys that are shooting your own bullets, try shooting the bullets with the residual wax left on the bullets. You will have to work up a load for the waxed bullets, it usually takes a very slight amount of additional powder. The result of shooting waxed bullets is that the standard deviation will go down to nothing and copper fouling is dramatically decreased. I made several hundred thousand bullets using the wax, and I never stuck a jacket in my Bob Simensen carbide dies. I never had dents in my jackets, and I never had any kind of mess to deal with...ever. The wax works so well that you can make MEF bullets by cutting a longer punch pin that will contact the top of the core instead of the meplat on top of the bullet. I made over about 100,000 bullets with about 1 gallon of wax...it really goes a long ways. Once you try the Wax, you will give the lanolin to someone that you do not like. |
#33
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George, so when we are talking about this there should not just be 1 application with a new jar but 2? This really confuses me. I thought we were to start with cleanliness first?
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I cannot believe there is a way I get to talk with some of the best die and bullet makers of our time. I really do get star struck here on the site. |
#34
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I'm not sure what you are asking. if starting with a new jar, then yes I would double the amount if not more. after that use what you would normally use. as for cleanliness wash jackets first and keep jar sealed when not in use. the only residue will be copper wash still migrating from jackets..
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#35
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Sorry let me attempt to clarify.
I thought one of the factors in making an accurate bullet is consistency? Although it may be a small amount in difference, would not starting with a clean jar every time insure that the amount applied to the jacket is the exact same? I know when I am starting with a clean jar how much lube I will have inside. If I start with a jar that already has lube in it and then apply 1 grain per 100 cases then how do I calculate how much lube I really have in there? I must be over thinking this, right?
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I cannot believe there is a way I get to talk with some of the best die and bullet makers of our time. I really do get star struck here on the site. |
#36
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NO not really if lube amount is small it just migrates out ejection pin hole. have you ever looked in die where ejec. pin assem is after making bullets all the goo in there is excess lube. I tend to like to keep things simple, there are bullet makers that have won nats. in the last year that clean nothing, not jackets or cores. This just leads to premature die wear but it works for them. get lube amount correct for the jackets you are using and core seating correct and all will work....
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