#1
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Carbon fouling
Just wrote a post on my blog about my adventures in removing carbon fouling from my rifle barrels.
If it helps anyone with the same kind of problem or helps them avoid it, I'll be happy. Carbon Fouling Removal BTW... I don't consider myself any kind of authority. Just telling how it went for me. - DAA
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#2
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Thanks for the information. I have been using Wipeout Carb Out. Now I wonder how effective that product is? I've heard it said far too many times that barrel damage occurs with aggressive cleaners and bore brushes.
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#3
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That was a good read.
I use JB's for throat management and it has served me well. Every 100-200 rounds depending on the chambering after cleaning I polish the throat with JBs. I start with blue and then finish with red. It has really extended the life of my overbore cartridges. |
#4
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Quote:
Just my opinion. - DAA
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#5
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Glad you stopped using the CLR. It contains a bunch various acids. It would be disastrous on a Cr-Mo steel, but the directions say it is okay for SS or Chrome. I 've had great results with Kroil, Montana Xtreme for Cu and JB for tough carbon. If you used a brass jag, that could be the cause of blue on patches, even if the rifle is clean. The ammonia compounds in most Cu cleaners dissolve brass as well as copper. Hope this helps.
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#6
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Quote:
The rifling machine jumped a cog or something, and put some huge gouges from the chamber about 13" down the barrel. Worst looking rifling I've ever seen in any barrel, in any condition. The rifle shoots 1/3 MOA. I don't really think a brass/bronze bore brush is going to stop something from shooting. |
#7
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I have a Krieger 8tw finished at 28 inches on my 22-243 Improved and it wants to build a carbon ring in the throat area just before the bullet touches the lands. I talked to Krieger about which product they recommended for removing carbon and he told me the bore paste works about as good as anything, but to be careful not to get overly crazy using because if I did it could very likely increase my OAL to bullet touching.
Curious if anyone has ever measured land engagement before and after using bore paste? |
#8
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Lot's of people have done lots of experimenting and measuring with JB. The most well done and interesting that I remember were the ones published in PS when the world was young. Utilizing standardized, mechanized application of JB with sophisticated controls and measures. Upshot of those tests was that you couldn't remove any measurable amount of steel with JB no matter how hard you tried.
Plenty don't agree. The test protocols were convincing to me though. I have never had reason to suspect I was moving the lands with JB in the decades I have used it. But changing dimensions and changing surface finish aren't the same thing. Nor is removing a carbon ring and wearing down lands the same thing. And, there are other abrasive cleaners to consider. I know for sure 40X is more aggressive and I do believe you could change the dimensions of steel with it. You can definitely remove tool marks with it. - DAA
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#9
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Years ago I read an article in American Rifleman that was about lapping a barrel with 3M polishing paper. I had a 7 STW at the time that was a copper pig so I tried this process on it and no more copper issues.
I remember I was doing this process one night during a Gunsmithing course I was taking at the local college and a gunsmith friend of mine who was a graduate of this course came by and asked what I was doing and after I explained it he shook his head and said it would be a 300 STW when I was done. The rifle barrel lasted around 16-1700 rounds before it was shot out. One sample I know but it worked. I did it on one more rifle - a 7-08 and that gun shoots sub 1/2 moa still to this day. All of this said I still believe you don't need a mirror finish on your bore to have a shooter. |
#10
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I use Ed's Red and to be honest, I find it as good if not better than the shop products I have paid big money for.
Pete
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Whatever is not nailed down is mine. What I can pry loose is not nailed down. |
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