#21
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john, if i can remember right you are using blackmon dies you will need a little more for steel than carbide i would start at 6-8 grs. per 1000 6m.m. jackets and adjust from there. i would say a little more is better in the begining than not enough it becomes a little unnerving when a bullet gets stuck in die. george
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#22
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I have steel dies on order from Larry Blackmon. We're going to be starting out making 6mm bullets using a .790" J4 jacket. Thanks for the info.
John |
#23
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The right amount of lube is the amount that produces the result between getting the bullets stuck and deep lube lines. Sorting this out is part of the craft of bullet making and is the result of trial and error. It will not be the same for a given length when the jacket lot changes.
One rule of thumb we use is that you want the finished bullet to be longer that the jacket was when you started. For example, when you use the .790 long jackets you want the bullet to end up somewhere around .815 to .835 long (if you are making flat based 7ish tangent ogive bullets). This means that the copper is flowing forward rather than compressing. We believe this is better. Regards, Eric |
#24
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Quote:
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#25
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Quote:
When you are adding lube to your lube jar for a fresh batch of jackets, do you wipe out any remaining lube from the previous batch, or do you add the fresh lube to what may be remaining in the jar? |
#26
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John when I tumble jackets there is sometimes enough lube left over in the jar to not require adding any more. I have never cleaned out the lube jar before adding more.
__________________
When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my gear for what I told her I paid for it. |
#27
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john, no i do not clean remaining lube out. that being said the first time you lube jar you will need to add more to get jar coated i would at least double the amount for the first time,jackets should feel stickey when they come out . george
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#28
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Thanks George:
That is what I was hoping you'd say. John |
#29
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Quote:
It posesses poor lubrication between steel on steel but good lubrication between Bronze on steel or Zink on steel . It can attack rubber products to some degree. Would be difficult to remove with water and detergents however. Thats why I clean my bullets in liquid hydrocarbon Shelite before moly coating. Last edited by J. Valentine; 03-21-2008 at 03:58 AM. |
#30
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Ok, the lube is taken care of now.
Once you've got the bullets made. How do you clean them up? Do you polish them? Some do, some don't. I much prefer polished if its possible. What with, how, how far? Thank you
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George "Gun Control is NOT about guns, it's about CONTROL!!" |
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