Model 7 Rem.

[K22]

I'm curious if any one might know why the trigger on my Model 7 will have a bit of take up once in a while. Doesn't happen all the time. I'm not sure it makes sense to me either. I've tried 2 different Model 7 factory triggers and now I have a Rifle Basix in it. All have done the same thing. You can fire 5 to 15 shots, maybe more, and it'll break like glass at 2 1/4lbs. fire it again and the trigger will move considerably and then at 2 1/4lbs. it'll break. What in the world causes this?
I've even adjusted all 3 of the triggers and they still did it. The Rifle Basix I sent back to them and they sent me a new one factory adjusted to 2lbs. and it does the same thing.
Do you think its in the bolt/firing pin? This is an early model 7 in factory chambered in 17 Rem.

[Hog Patrol]

Is the trigger touching something inside the stock? Make sure there is clearance for the safety lever. I had an issue with an aftermarket trigger and had to remove some material to get the lever to cycle completely.

[K22]

Clearance is good within the stock. I had to remove some metal from the trigger guard to get the Rifle Basix to work properly. The stock Remington triggers both acted the same way.

Thanks

[hemiallen]

You should try the triggers when out of the stock and see if the trigger acts the same as in the stock. I have worked on guns that out of the stock didn't have bolt stop issues, only to find once in the stock the trigger was hitting the stock even though it didn't look like it, actually the action was near a Glue-in AND came out very difficult. Removed some bedding, got it leveled so the front and back epoxy pads actually were uniformly putting pressure on the action, and it works great.


I have also adjusted triggers on the bench on the action, recorded the set weight and found both poor bedding causing the action to be in a bind, and also dragging on the stock being slightly leaned on one side causing the change in set weight.


I have worked on 8 + rem 700's purchased used in the last 3 years, and you would be surprised at how terrible some gunsmiths ( and wanna be gunsmiths) screw up bedding. Even the guns that shoot bugholes seem to have issues, like epoxy filling the pillar holes ( not drilled out after bedding cures), if you draw down the front action screw first to snug you find the tang's pad not contacting the tang, etc. Once fixed they have all shot well for me.


Heck, I even got an Un-gunsmithed 223 from a guy and the front of the HS precision bedding block had been burred so much the barrel was contacting the stock 4" ahead of the action screw. Setting the height with tape, using surgical tubing and some epoxy she started shooting in the .3's. I'll get one down the road that doesn't respond as expected, but if the barrel is good I think I have the stress-free epoxying figured out...lol


Allen

[K22]

Thanks Allen. I'll certainly go back and take a look at it again. I do my own pillar bedding also and I bedded this one several years ago, but decided to grind the bedding out and do it again just in case ......... I real certain its not in any bind as I can loosen the action screws, snug the rear screw down and when I tighten the front screw I can't feel the action move at all. Even if I reverse the tightening process.
The trigger does act the same way in or out of the stock. And like I said earlier, it only happens once every 5 to 15 rounds + or - a round, then its back to normal again. Its done this from the day I bought it. It feels like the sear goes out of adjustment and then resets itself correctly. Heck, I don't know what its doing.
Have I mentioned how much I dislike Remington triggers? And how much I love Kimber triggers.

[hemiallen]

Sounds like you will get it figured out, some folks as mentioned above don't really understand fine tuning. I recall one gun that if the front action screw was torqued to 20 inch pounds, cycle the trigger and it was fine, torqued the back screw and it had issues. Little things you can't see happen, it seems like it doesn't take much.

I could see if she had 1# springs it may not be resetting the same all the time, maybe a good dousing with Carb cleaner off the action might solve the problem, some seem to be tempramental with old oil.


I have found for a hunter the Shilen trigger to be a good swap, if you have an old style safety to add. And they are under $100.


Good luck


Allen

[Bayou City Boy]

Strange........ Have you taken the bolt/firing pin assembly apart to see if there is any binding or slop inside the bolt that might be holding the striker in a slightly different position occasionally?

If it has happened with several different triggers from two different makers, I'd be inclined to think it's something other than a trigger issue......

JMO -BCB

[L Cazador]

Sounds like the striker is hanging up on the bolt shroud . The 700 bolt shrouds are made in a large production shop , and most do not line up with the striker .

[K22]

BCB & L Cazador I was kind of alluding to that, but I've never taken one apart, (not sure I should admit to that), so I was hesitant to mention it. Looks like I'll be taking it apart this week. Any hints or suggestions? I have a bolt tool I got from Brownells that is still in new.

[Chuck Miller]

Once you determined that in or out of the stock, multiple triggers, your able to reproduce it, then move on. I would look at the bolt internals as mentioned and any point the trigger interfaces with the bolt.