#11
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My understanding is there can be a issue with heating and twisting of the rib? I have read numerous times that one of the accurizing tricks to the Ruger no. 1 is to either split the rib or get separate bases and to allow more space between the back mount and the receiver as well.
Greg |
#12
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Yes this is true ,however it is not always a problem . I have worked with a fair number of #1 s . and the rib issue is a lot less of a problem than is the fit and bedding of the forearm . What caliber are you using ? Have you used the firearm as is ?
If you do remove the rib the guide pins can be a bit of a bugger to pull out . I have removed the ribs and relieved the back of the rib so it does not touch the receiver . My most favorite rifle I ever , was a Ruger # 1 I rebarreled with a Shilen barrel in 17 REM . I have noted over the years that one usually gets more velocity out of #1s . Two thoughts I have is that sometimes the barrels are longer on # 1 ,not always though, and that the cartridge case is enclosed more by the chamber as compared to a bolt action .?? I have seen some # 1 s that really do shoot . I love the action style for varminting off a bench . Good luck with your rifle . Chris
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"Genius may have it's limitations but stupidity is not thusly handicapped." Last edited by chris allen; 02-28-2014 at 12:39 PM. Reason: addition |
#13
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Chris,
I love the number 1 as well but they don't like me. This is another 1S in 218 Bee I picked up. I really wan this one to work and I don't think I will see any heat issues with this cartridge but I want everything stacked in my favor. PM me your phone number so I can call you. Greg |
#14
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ruger no 1 bases
Brownells use to carry "Mould" two pice bases that would replace the rib and have multiple weaver slots.
They were / are a bit pricey, but work well. If you Google "ruger no1 scope base" and view the reulting images......pretty sure you can find them. Hope that helps |
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