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  #11  
Old 11-27-2018, 06:03 PM
hemiallen hemiallen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
Clarify something for me. If a full action bedding is done on a rifle, then why would pillars be needed, other than maybe enclose the action screw/bolts ? Bill K
A proper pillar contacts the bottom of the action, and contacts the magazine / or if an ADL type blind magazine stock, the escution ( sp) so that the torque you might apply over that needed to hold the action from moving upon recoil causes the bolt to stretch, and not the wood or whatever material the stock is made of to crush. This basically creates a metal frame inside a softer wood or synthetic stock, gives the shooter the ability to hold whichever they choose and have the benefit of the action bolted to the most stable material for accuracy.

Allen
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2018, 10:33 PM
ben lurkin ben lurkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayou City Boy View Post
If you haven't shot it yet, I'd do that before I spent time and money to maybe fix nothing. Coopers shoot extremely well as they come from the factory in spite of the fact that they may not be bedded or pillared exactly like every internet expert says they should be done.

Why re-invent the wheel if the one you have is round?


And I would definitely not follow the torque recommendations you have received. Always torque the front screw first and then snug the back one.


-BCB
^^^ This!

I have two Coopers and they both shoot lights out - without pillar bedding. Now I agree, a properly done pillar bedding job is more temperature stable from a stress standpoint. BUT, if it isn't broke; DON'T "FIX" IT!
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:09 AM
varmintshooter varmintshooter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben lurkin View Post
^^^ This!

I have two Coopers and they both shoot lights out - without pillar bedding. Now I agree, a properly done pillar bedding job is more temperature stable from a stress standpoint. BUT, if it isn't broke; DON'T "FIX" IT!
+1 don't fix what isn't broke. My first of 7 Coopers, bought 15 or so years ago still shoots as good as when new. You buy a good quality gun so you don't have to "fix" it before you shoot it.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2018, 06:58 PM
jimreed1948 jimreed1948 is offline
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Default Torque settings still unclear

After seeing the different post here regarding the torque setting on the receiver screws, I emailed Cooper this morning and just got their reply.

"We don't have a specific torque for them, as different amounts. Tighten the rear screw, and then front, and make sure they are TIGHT."
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2018, 07:18 PM
Rick in Oregon Rick in Oregon is offline
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I'm pretty much a hard-core rifle tweaker, and almost always bed ANY rifle that comes to my stable.......except Coopers.

That said, (and I totally agree about the benefits of pillar bedding), "if it ain't broke" rings true in regard to Cooper rifles.

I'm with BCB in that you should take the rifle out and see what it's capable of before you start dinking about with it. I own only four Coopers, MTV, VR and Phoenix models, and all shoot 1/4" at 100 yards.....how much better would that be if pillar bedded? Don't know, don't care, as 1/4" is more than good enough for me, and all the ground squirrels and rock chucks around here are not giving me the "single finger salute" either.

Save yourself some time, money and maybe frustration and go shoot the thing first!
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:19 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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I'll chime in with BCB and RIO on Coopers also. I only have three, M21 Varminters in 221FB and 223, and a M38 Classic in 22 Hornet. The two M21s run in the low 3's for five at 100yds, and the Hornet in low 4's, but it also has lower power scope on it.
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2018, 12:55 AM
Herb in Pa Herb in Pa is offline
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I'm also with Tinman, RIO and BCB
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2018, 12:50 AM
Loc 1849 Loc 1849 is offline
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I've been thinking about this lately and reading up on McMillan about it. He says the purpose of glass bedding and pillars is to add strength to the receiver area and limit the change in POI. The single shot Cooper MTV is plenty meaty in the receiver area of the stock and mine holds POI within a click either side of zero, and this is in a seasonal temp variation of 45+ degrees centigrade. It shoots in the 3's and for me I struggle to see the benefit of this work for my varminter.

Last edited by Loc 1849; 12-04-2018 at 04:43 AM. Reason: add; "and pillars" + "my" varminter + "in the receiver area of the stock"
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2018, 06:08 AM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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There is a vast difference in humidity from some areas to others (even some countries to another) I have six Coopers and have to say every stock has swelled and moved some since I got them, one of the joys of wood.

I haven't installed pillars or bedded any of them, but the last time I took the 22WMR out it wouldn't group anywhere near as good as it did when I first got it. Upon inspection the fore end has moved and is now touching the barrel no wonder it won't group worth a damn now.

When I look at all the other Cooper stocks the wood has swelled some or the butt plates/pads have shrunk as the wood is quite proud of the butt plate/pad.

That is the joys of wood, while it looks great it also moves, that is why some add pillars and bed the action into the stock, this way the bedding should not be affected by the wood moving...……..Kiwi
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2018, 03:42 PM
hemiallen hemiallen is offline
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Good points Kiwi,

The first rifle I bedded, due to reading an article on the benefits of making a more stable assembly due to swelling, etc, I made the gun shoot worse.

One point above that surprises me is Cooper suggesting to tighten the tang screw first, I have always read, and it makes sense to me, that tightening the action screw to torque spec first seems logical. And a tip one learns during this is, hold your free hand on the forearm area and wrap fingers around the barrel. When tightening the rear screw, if the bedding is wonky you will feel movement between the stock and barrel. When you tighten the rear screw, any movement means the bedding of the action isn't perfect, and could use fixing. Practice on a junker to learn the best way for you to accomplish a good bedding is probably the best one can do to saving a lot of $ and satisfaction learning this easy job.

I have had guns with this less than perfect bedding shoot well, but getting the action to lay into a fully supported, no stress condition ( like a aluminum bedding block stock does) is what allows one to remove the action from the stock and return it to shooting the same point of impact, in my world. And even many suggest skim bedding even the best Aluminum bedding block stocks.

Good winter tinkering! Hope this helps

Allen
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