#21
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I was of the same thought.
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#22
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Sorry guys just using stats provided by the good people of Saubier.com.
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#23
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Just speculateing (guessing) here guys.
Years ago when I first got my first .17cal (Cooper 17MkIV) I was forming brass out of Win & LC Brass. In order to get to the 17MkIV you first have to draw it down to 221 FireBall. I set about a 100 of these aside to save for a future 221FB acquisition. Later (much later) after I had my 221FB (2 of ‘em by now) I did a weight comparison between my formed Win, LC brass and Remington factory made 221FB brass. The Remington was lighter by far than the LC and Win brass, LC brass being the heaviest. I was just curious about the brass weights and I never wrote down the measurements or bothered to try and remember the numbers but I was a tad surprised at the difference. Does lighter mean the brass is weaker? I dunno; but with all things being equal (which they rarely are) the heavier (thicker?) brass would equate to being stronger. I’m just thinking here and I have no scientific proof of this mental gymnastics so don’t hold my feet to the fire, please. Oh; by the way the Win & LC brass was also all prepped for shooting meaning the brass Primer Pockets were uniformed (reamed), Flash Holes reamed, Neck thicknesses reamed and Neck Mouths trimmed inside and out. So… as much brass was already removed from the Win & LC brass possible when I did the weight comparison.
I don’t think this means that the Rem FB brass is weak just not as strong as the heavier (maby thicker) brass. Does this mean you can push the Win and particularly the LC brass to higher pressure before case failures occur? Again I dunno, never tried it and maby never will, but I like to speculate.
__________________
There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading... The few who learn by observation... And the rest, who have to piss on the electric fence for themselves...!! |
#24
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I guess what AB is saying that although the 221FB brass is not unsafe but that the brass made from LC 223 (or maybe even Winchester or Lapua) provides a better platform. This would be due to better primer pockets, uniform necks, better grade of brass etc, plus that special TLC that can be given when "rolling your own".
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#25
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Jim you took the words right out of my mouth. Thank you. Adam
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#26
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I once had a batch of Fireball brass that was so bad I refused to use it for wildcat forming. Off center flash holes, wildly eccentric neck thickness. Also had some with very soft case heads causing early loosening of the primer pockets. It's worth it usually to start with good 223 brass, I use W-W with great results.
Here is an old pic of my steps using the preferred method of a dedicated Redding 223 to 221 form set, then down to Mach IV.
__________________
--Dan C "Special appetite skill combine with brain lentil size create the deadliest!" |
#27
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I hear ya Dan. In the last year I had a batch of Rem 357 Max brass that had flashholes egged out and bits of brass stuck in the flash hole... And how long has Remington been making/selling brass??? Seems they would have better QC by now???
__________________
Shoot First... Ask questions later... On Saubier.com __________________ NRA Lifetime Endowment Member |
#28
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What I found is if you start with Remington brass you don't nomally have to turn the necks with a factory chamber. I made FB brass out of LC and Winchester brass without problems but the necks need to be turned.
My older SPS will take any brass but my two newer Remingtons have a tighter neck. More brass porn |
#29
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Back to the top for BHB. Adam
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#30
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............or you could just shoot a .204 and have a 17 Fireball also and shoot and load without all the fuss! Maybe a couple 223's to back up the real varminters would be nice! Sorry KeninVa............just couldn't help it!!hahahahaha Charlie
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