#1
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17 hornet annealing help
Here are the Hornet cases I think I over annealed . What do you seasoned handloaders think …. Are the annealed too far down ? Do I junk them ? |
#2
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Seat a bullet in them and see if you can shove it further down with just moderate pressure against the edge of your bench. They may be fine, BUT what matters more is the case head. I will use an automatic center punch to see if brass has been annealed down close to the head of the case. If so, don’t load them. Hornets have a small amount of brass around the primer and will blow out the primer pockets if at all compromised in that regard.
Center punch an unannealed case and one of these and look at the size of the divit. You can see right away when the brass is annealed. It works for the length of brass like 223, but hornet brass is too thin at the neck to cock the center punch. If you have a center punch and the point is sharp center punch one side and then heat the base it almost to and center punch the other side and you will see how much more penetration there is when the head is annealed. I have found that brass I have over annealed the shoulder sticks in the chamber frequently, that is another consideration. It seems to get it’s springiness back after a few loads though. Just when it starts to turn the slightest bit red and the flame goes to anything but blue and then I speed up my machine a tiny bit and call it good. That coincides with tempilaque and heat crayons for me. There is a video on how to adjust the flame, I think a link to it is on Annealeez website. I watched it and that is what I find best. Last edited by JDHasty; 05-07-2022 at 07:54 PM. |
#3
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Also the flame is angled toward me and I shield the shoulder on Hornet cases with a piece of aluminum. Then I have them drop into a pan of water. I don’t do that with other cases, tiny little hornet cases make me nervous though.
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#4
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Here’s the video link
https://youtube.com/watch?v=9Iqf5O0UIzE&feature=share My machine spins the opposite direction and the aluminum beside the left side of the wheel when looking at the machine shields the shoulder of hornet cases if I have the torch set up to the left and angled forward. My machine the torch can be set up to the left or right, normally mine is set to the left. Always it is set up to the left when I am doing Hornet brass. |
#5
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I have an automatic center punch , I will try your recommendations . I pulled the cases out of the flame as soon as I seen a very faint dull red , I also directed the flame towards the neck while trying to pick up the shoulder. Problem is , I should have only tried a few and checked them with the lights on . The room was pretty dark with a tv in the background as the only light source . This provided just enough light to work with .
I have some Privi brass that I have recently formed and needs to be annealed . I will be more careful this time around! Thanks for the advice! This site is full of good information and I have learned much from the advice of many here ! |
#6
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Hornet cases really turn quickly. When I got a hint of any orange/red and saw just a touch of the flame color turning I turned the speed up just a tiny bit and all was good. The only shoulder split I had on 150 PPU cases made into 17 Hornet away one that dropped and bounced into my water pan and I forgot to find later. As soon as I shot and looked at it I knew which it was.
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#7
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Those cases look OK to me. If they collapse when seating the bullets, they are over annealed.
__________________
Daryl |
#8
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Those cases look OK to me too, its important to use a very hot needle point flame and rotate the case in an old socket so the neck and start of the shoulder of the heat up quickly and evenly.
You don't want heat to travel down to the case head and web. Air cool on a head sink (block of metal, cool concrete etc) There's a few threads already on this: http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29680 Last edited by Tilleyman; 05-10-2022 at 06:00 AM. |
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