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  #11  
Old 03-08-2022, 01:07 AM
GLWenzl GLWenzl is offline
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Originally Posted by cooperve View Post
I’ve had two Ruger No. 1’s in the far past. Both would vertical string to 1-inch plus and sometimes keep going groups. The first was a .243. The fired brass showed stretch & internal cracks near the head. Ruger said the head space was in tolerance. The second No. 1 was a .22 PPC HB with the same vertical stringing. I had every trick done to this rifle I could find at the time. Froze barrel, forearm floated and spring tension button, glass, trigger, & etc. Little to no improvement.

I purchased a T/C Contender in .223, it is a T/C Custom Shop barrel. Ugly vertical stringing.

I started reading on Mike Bellm's forum on Contender/Encore case head spacing. This Contender now shoots 1/4 to 3/8-inch groups in routine with proper Contender/Encore head spacing using Mike’s knowledge.

I’m not going to buy another Ruger No. 1 to test this idea, but I often wonder if this could be a big problem with the No. 1, proper case head space?

Has anyone corrected a No. 1 testing for proper head space?

Interesting stuff. I don’t remember a contender vertical stringing but I like to mess with the headspace on them. I even bought his head space gauge tools.

I did have a#1 218 bee that was the worst vertical stringing gun I owned… until I started using lilgun and the hotter the load the better the accuracy. I think it was about a 1/2” for 5 @100
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2022, 04:39 AM
Flynmoose Flynmoose is offline
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Originally Posted by GLWenzl View Post
Interesting stuff. I don’t remember a contender vertical stringing but I like to mess with the headspace on them. I even bought his head space gauge tools.

I did have a#1 218 bee that was the worst vertical stringing gun I owned… until I started using lilgun and the hotter the load the better the accuracy. I think it was about a 1/2” for 5 @100
Lil Gun powder works in my 1S 218 Bee, can't wait for some shootin' weather!
Bill
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2022, 08:04 AM
kenbro kenbro is offline
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I have an Encore and Contender.
Can someone explain just how you change the headspace on break barrel action like these?
Sorry for hijack.
Ken.
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2022, 01:36 PM
Double D Double D is offline
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Two headspace's.

Chamber and cartridge. The critical one is the the chamber head space.

In Contender the procedure was to full length size the brass just barely touch the shoulder. The dropping the case in the chamber and closing the action by snapping it shut. Keep trying by screwing in the sizing bumping the shoulder a little more each time until gun would snap shut and lock.

From there we use continue to screw the sizing die in a bit more and see what results we got down range.

I was working with the 7TCU trying this back in the late 70's early 80's. Can't remember what worked best back.

I was also working with the 30 Herrett trying to head space off the shoulder
But rims on 30-30 were so varied, that some times you could do it and some time you couldn't. Some rim s you had to snap the action shut, some you didn't. The the loose ones were the one we could head space shoulders.

Give a parent case of the 30-30 it always amazed how well we coulds shoot those .30 Herretts.
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2022, 01:39 PM
Bill K Bill K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenbro View Post
I have an Encore and Contender.
Can someone explain just how you change the headspace on break barrel action like these?
Sorry for hijack.
Ken.
Ken. Google up Bellm's TC and he has a tutor on checking and adjusting headspace on the TC's/ and other bits of info on working on them yourself.
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2022, 04:46 PM
GLWenzl GLWenzl is offline
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Yes, more info than you would think

https://www.bellmtcs.com/blog/headspace/

And I haven’t used this method but here is a good video of it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hyrtypY9cV0
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2022, 07:40 PM
Daryl Daryl is offline
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Kiwi - my #1B in .218Bee responded to:
1/. I glassed the hanger to the forend and floated the barrel, except for it's hanger attachment.
2/. I also removed forend wood so it did not contact the action.
3/. I split the 1/4 rib, so heat expansion would not torque the scope.
I had read that the longish 1/4 rib would elongate .007".
The alternative to elongating the rib, was to slot the front screw hole - apparently. I did not do that.
3-shot groups using Nosler BT's was sub 1/2" regularly @ 100 meters, using Lil'Gun powder & stiff loads.
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2022, 07:51 AM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl View Post
Kiwi - my #1B in .218Bee responded to:
1/. I glassed the hanger to the forend and floated the barrel, except for it's hanger attachment.
2/. I also removed forend wood so it did not contact the action.
3/. I split the 1/4 rib, so heat expansion would not torque the scope.
I had read that the longish 1/4 rib would elongate .007".
The alternative to elongating the rib, was to slot the front screw hole - apparently. I did not do that.
3-shot groups using Nosler BT's was sub 1/2" regularly @ 100 meters, using Lil'Gun powder & stiff loads.
Thanks Daryl, that was the information I was looking for.

In reference to the above posts about headspace, I would think that those that know about headspace would adjust their dies accordingly to get correct headspace on resized cases............Kiwi
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  #19  
Old 03-09-2022, 05:05 PM
GLWenzl GLWenzl is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiwishooter View Post
Thanks Daryl, that was the information I was looking for.

In reference to the above posts about headspace, I would think that those that know about headspace would adjust their dies accordingly to get correct headspace on resized cases............Kiwi
I’d start with the easiest cheapest route and work through the list. My 218 Bee only needed a warm load of lil gun.

When I bought this 17 Kilker Bee it already had a lot of custom work done including a custom Talley scope base so it was pretty much a load and shoot with good accuracy.

http://www.saubier.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5705

If I was in your shoes right now, I’m pretty sure it would have to be some form of the 20-221 on the 357 Max case… or maybe a rimmed 257 Roberts. I’ll be looking forward to seeing the end result!
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  #20  
Old 03-09-2022, 09:01 PM
Teancum1 Teancum1 is offline
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Default loved my .223 #1 - 'til I didn't

Had a nice 7mm Rem Mag #1. Swapped it for a #1V in .223 because I always loved that falling block action and wanted something I would shoot more. If you FL sized, you would have total case head separation after about the 3rd firing. Being older and wiser now, I would send it back to Ruger and have them get it to SAAMI spec - had a gunsmith check it for me and it was well out. As it was, I just neck sized. It shot pretty good, and as my 1st "varmint rifle" and one that I loved, I made as if everything was great - when groups were actually pretty marginal. Eventually, in a moment of total honesty, I had to admit that it just didn't shoot all that well. Sold it (with full disclosure) and bought a Savage M12 BVSS which consistently grouped one ragged hole. Still love the #1, and will probably never own another.

Last edited by Teancum1; 03-09-2022 at 09:03 PM. Reason: add info
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