Chamfer Tool - Back to the basics

[TinMan]

Yes, the Lyman will cut a very slight bevel and de-burr on the OD or ID. It just barely fits into the 5/8" drill chuck on my drill press, but it does fit. I run it fairly slow, maybe 200-250 rpm.

[GLWenzl]

Thanks for the help. I’m still not sure if the mouth should or shouldn’t have a slight chamfer on it. The only good (or reason) I can see to have a chamfer is because it could potentially mitigate the chance of a crack/split neck.

Other than that there is probably no good reason to have or not have a slight chamfer?

I suppose if ya chambered a round that was not caught and exceeded max ol length then a chamfer might aid in closing the bolt and rolling it into a tight crimp??

[TinMan]

To me, if there is a slight chamfer on the mouth, it makes the bullet a lot smoother to seat, especially FB bullets. If you ever have to pull the bullets, you will get fewer bad scratches on the bullets than when the mouth is not chamfered.

[AlbertaAl]

Originally Posted by camel

I am still using the same RCBS de-burring tool that I purchased in the early 1980's, still does a good job and I cant see any point of changing.

X 2, used the RCBS manual forever , cleans inside/outside in seconds.

i have a Sinclair rotary trimmer with the deburring accessory which I've used but found it to be too aggressive and too time consuming.

[ramos]

The Sinclair 28* tool works awesome at 200-250rpm. Just a light touch for less than one second. You get into a rhythm and can do a large quantity in nothing flat.

I like a slight chamfer on the outside, as well. If a guy gets carried away with chamfering, you end up with a 'sharpened' case mouth. Not what we want, at all. Sharp one do make decent leather punches, though!

My goal is a just enough bevel on the inside to aid seating and a less than 90* edge on the outside. Afterwards, I polish the case mouth with a spinning disc of Scotch Brite for a butter-smooth mouth.

[GLWenzl]

Originally Posted by TinMan

To me, if there is a slight chamfer on the mouth, it makes the bullet a lot smoother to seat, especially FB bullets. If you ever have to pull the bullets, you will get fewer bad scratches on the bullets than when the mouth is not chamfered.

I completely agree but may not have been clear on that. It’s the OD I got to overthinking.

And yes there are times to get a nice chamfer on ID&OD to have a sharp leather punch. I do this when making cardboard wads for shotshell on 357/44/45.

When I spoke to a Hornady tech and he told me that my deburring tool is not made to cut, that made me start to think what is it I am trying to accomplish with this task? Since then I have done about 400 cases using yet instead of my favorite that actually cuts a small chamfer). As much as I want a small cut chamfer (no good reason or explanation) I think the tech may have enlightened me.

[hemiallen]

I am not familiar with the hornady tool, but the old double ended RCBS tool and my current VLD tool cut metal. I have pulled bullets that I didn't debur well enough and found the sides of the bullet are damaged, and I can't imagine that is conducive to small groups.

If you can feel a ridge on the outside, it probably doesn't matter as the neck OD is smaller than your chamber is cut, but it sure doesn't feel "right" with all the time we spend reloading them....

[georgeld]

Gary:
One major thing about inside chamfer is it keeps from
shaving the sides of your bullets.

Far as making a punch. HF sells a pack of 'em for about
$5-7, from about 1/8" up to 1/2".
Iv'e used a couple cutting felt for b/p over powder wads.
I shoot a Walker Colt sometimes and sure don't want fire
skipping around the cylinder lighting all the loads up at once.

For backing, I got a slab of raw rubber from a recapper many
yrs ago. Sure handy to whack a hunk or six off for cushions under
vibrating equipment at times too.

Good for gun work on a table you don't want to mark up if you get
some of that 60" wide 1/8" neoprene gasket material. Expensive tho.

Gave a hunk big enough to cover Kevin Weavers work bench when I
saw he used an old dirty piece of carpet that could contain metal chips.
It works to make soft jaws for a vise too. I use clear DAP to glue 'em in
place.

[GLWenzl]

Originally Posted by hemiallen

I am not familiar with the hornady tool, but the old double ended RCBS tool and my current VLD tool cut metal. I have pulled bullets that I didn't debur well enough and found the sides of the bullet are damaged, and I can't imagine that is conducive to small groups.

If you can feel a ridge on the outside, it probably doesn't matter as the neck OD is smaller than your chamber is cut, but it sure doesn't feel "right" with all the time we spend reloading them....

I didn’t think about an OD burr causing that, thanks for sharing that.

Here s what I use

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...deburring-tool

The chamfer tool is an awesome cutter.

The deburring tool works very well for removing burrs and leaving a smooth edge but it will roll a lip before it actually cuts if you try to make it cut.

[AlbertaAl]

Originally Posted by hemiallen

I am not familiar with the hornady tool, but the old double ended RCBS tool and my current VLD tool cut metal. I have pulled bullets that I didn't debur well enough and found the sides of the bullet are damaged, and I can't imagine that is conducive to small groups.

If you can feel a ridge on the outside, it probably doesn't matter as the neck OD is smaller than your chamber is cut, but it sure doesn't feel "right" with all the time we spend reloading them....

Using the RCBS hand tool (inside/outside deburring), you can feel the smoothness of the deburring process... basicly, rotate the tool till you feel the vibration beome smooth. Any other tool might over-clean the job and create a sharp permimeter