Saubier.com  



Go Back   Saubier.com > Saubier.com Forums > Small Caliber Discussion Board

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:08 PM
flyrod flyrod is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 258
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by varmintshooter View Post
You buy a good quality gun so you don't have to "fix" it before you shoot it.
That's what I thought too, but I had to fix my brand new cooper before it would work. It wasn't the bedding though. The M38 receiver is pretty short and stiff, so I don't think the bedding is very critical. I have a ruger 77 VHZ with a long and spindly receiver, that will shoot quite differently based on how I hold it or load the stock.

I was building a comp gun based on a BAT with integrated rail (short and rigid receiver), and after various delays getting things I had just got the barrel chambered and screwed on and I wanted to shoot a match that weekend. I did a quick dremel hack job just to get it in a wood stock and it shot great. Later when I had time I did a nice aluminum pillar/block and epoxy bedding job and it shot exactly the same. The zero didn't even budge.

Last edited by flyrod; 12-04-2018 at 07:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 12-04-2018, 07:31 PM
rick w. rick w. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 869
Default

I purchased recently a Cooper Varminter(21) with wood stock in 20TAC. My first 20 cal, and first Cooper. I now have a nice example. I plan to pillar bed it.

Years ago we used to skim coat with epoxy the action proper and throught we were the cats. After a while, the skim crushed, and the wood warped; so went the regularity of the rifle sorta speak.

I learned about pillar bedding in my benchrest days. I had two benchrest rifles built, a light and a heavy varmint. Both were synthetic stocks......and pillared with a skim coat in between, recoil lug area built up. I was told then that the pillar job probably would suffice, but if I wanted to go to glue in, the basis of foundation was in place with the previous pillaring.

I started out with a 40x-br in 6x47 and 222; wood factory stocked. Both shot ok, but once pillared, both were consistent and good year to year. So guess that got me on the wagon of pillaring.

I do not think pillars need to be necessarily metal, several guys used fiberglass rod with good success. I think most are aluminum, guess due to weight maybe. Both pillars ought to be the same material though, bolts do not touch etc etc usual stuff.

I am not one to pillar a laminated stock so far, wood is toughened with the resins against crush and moisture, and are heavy enough as is really.

In my state, humidity is a killer at times. No sweat box for rust blue please. I love the look of wood, straight or figured still..........but those stocks are sealed the best I can, and the pillars are there in place. Some woods like the claros are fairly soft and porous in my opinion.

So guess I am a believer in pillaring, no matter whose rifle or who built it for me. Experience, good and bad; over time has lead me to that conclusion along with too big of a torque wrench.............that is gone with the Schwinn finally..............slow learner here.

Last edited by rick w.; 12-04-2018 at 07:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.