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  #1  
Old 09-16-2020, 06:53 PM
mefizto mefizto is offline
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Default Reforming cases issues

Greetings all,

being motivated by learning something new and paranoia that certain cases may disappear, I am have been trying to reform .223 cases into .221 FB, and ultimately to .20 VarTarg.

I have first cleaned and tumbled several different head-stamped cases (LC, PMC, FC and WIN5.556 mm), and then reformed them by Redding .221 body die. It went rather well as you can see from the not-attached picture (see P.S. below), I lost one case out of fifty – the case developed crease along the entire length of the neck. I have then cut the case several thousand of inch taller by a hack saw, and cleaned the neck, but not to the correct length. The reason was, that I wanted to take measurements and compare them with a (reference) Lapua .221 FB case.

The measured neck dimension is .254 inches vis-à-vis the Lapua’s 0.248. This has been expected, since the neck is formed form the thicker portion of the case.

The (relative) base to shoulder dimension, measured by a comparator/bump gauge, is 1.088 inch for Lapua and 1.092 inch for the reformed case. I thought that I did not adjust the Redding .221 body die correctly, but I discovered that it was not the case (no pun intended), the press’ piston clearly touches the bottom of the die.

I was surprised that the remaining dimensions are exactly as the dimensions of the Lapua, regardless of the case’s head-stamp.

I have two questions:

1. What do I do about the shoulder length discrepancy? Do I sent the die back to Redding? Do I ask a friend to shorten the case?
2. The hack saw method of cutting the cases is unsatisfactory; it takes a lot of time and it is imprecise. Any ideas, considering that there is a need to produce hundreds of cases.

Kindest regards,

M

P.S. I have read the FAQ, but cannot attach a picture. When I click the "Manage Attachments" a new window does indeed open but, there is no "Browse" button.

Last edited by mefizto; 09-16-2020 at 07:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2020, 08:59 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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Several folks have used a miniature cut-off saw from Harbor Freight that is not very expensive. You have to rig a jig to hold the case square to cut it off. Maybe try to search old posts to see if you can find the posts. I do not have one. You also might find a jeweler''s saw handy if you want to do them manually. It looks like a small coping saw, but with very fine blades for metalwork.
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2020, 11:40 PM
mefizto mefizto is offline
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Hi TinMan,

thank you for the recommendation, it looks like a solution.

Kindest regards,

M
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  #4  
Old 09-16-2020, 11:43 PM
56S 56S is offline
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I make 222 Rem brass from 223-5.56 brass having the best luck from LC brass. My biggest hurdle was the lube finally settling on pure lanolin very lightly rubbed only on the LC brass and none on the shoulder.
I too noticed my 222.5 brass were slightly longer as you did but never had a problem chambering them. I think this is normal when the brass springs back after forming. You might try some different shell holders or modify one just for that operation. I don't think it would take too long with some wet/dry paper and a piece of glass.

Although more expensive might you try some 222 brass as your starting point?
As for cutting down to length I'm not sure how much you need to remove but on my 222.5 and 22H to 17HH I use an old Lyman trimmer modified by drilling out the peened shaft that holds the handle and tapping 1/4x20 and putting in a very short bolt. A 7/16 nut driver in my cordless drill makes a pretty pile of shavings right quick. I do lube the pilot to reduce wear on the inside of the neck. I have seen a HF mini chop saw used to make 300 Blackout brass from 223 and if you want to speed the operation that might be worth it.
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2020, 12:13 AM
mefizto mefizto is offline
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Hi 56S,

thank you for the reply.

I think that shortening the shell-holder is the correct solution. I will just have to make sure to mark it.

I have to shorten the neck by about 0.37 inch, so the reamer is out of question.

I do not understand your reason for recommending the .222 brass. Except the only case, I had no problem. Furthermore, I am hoarding all the .222 bras as I am planning on a rifle in this caliber.

Kindest regards,

M
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2020, 12:51 AM
flyrod flyrod is offline
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As mentioned, check how the brass chambers before modifying dies or shell holders.

What does fired brass measure?

What does a sized lapua case measure?

It might just depend on what part of the shoulder you're measuring with your gage.

I would suggest annealing the formed brass, turning necks (are they too thick for your chamber?), and maybe sizing again if the cases are tight in the chamber. Annealed brass will spring back less and should last longer. I've had wildcats formed from new brass crack on the first firing, and annealing fixed the problem.
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  #7  
Old 09-17-2020, 02:25 AM
SEM SEM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrod View Post
As mentioned, check how the brass chambers before modifying dies or shell holders.

What does fired brass measure?

What does a sized lapua case measure?

It might just depend on what part of the shoulder you're measuring with your gage.

I would suggest annealing the formed brass, turning necks (are they too thick for your chamber?), and maybe sizing again if the cases are tight in the chamber. Annealed brass will spring back less and should last longer. I've had wildcats formed from new brass crack on the first firing, and annealing fixed the problem.
Anneal Anneal Anneal Talk to flyrod about an annealer simplifies life !
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  #8  
Old 09-17-2020, 08:09 AM
Foxhunter223 Foxhunter223 is offline
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I convert 223 brass into 222 which is too long. I then trim it to length using my Wilson case trimmer which works like a dream.

Pete
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  #9  
Old 09-17-2020, 11:00 AM
56S 56S is offline
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The 221 FB is based off the 222. Just thought it might be a little easier on you.
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2020, 05:06 PM
mefizto mefizto is offline
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Greetings all,

thank you for your replies, I am slowly learning.

Hi flyrod,

I am not loading yet, this is an exercise in trying to learn to reform a case to the onr to be shot. As I understand it, I need to make all the dimensions accurate, at least for the reason of being able to chamber the load. And since Lapua is considered a prime case, that is what I base my reference on.

I am not trying to doubt your experience, but do you really thing that once fired cases are already worked to the point of needing annealing? Even considering that I was lied to, all the cases have the same (oversized) dimension.

Hi Foxhunter223,

I tried a case trimmer, but it takes forever, note the lenght that I have to trim.

Kindest regards,

M
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