#1
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Carbon Fouling
Check out all these products I've used to remove carbon in the throat area of my rifles. Non of them work as advertized. A recent problem with a new build compelled me to buy a much anticipated bore scope. Wow, what an eye opener that was! Most everything I own has carbon fouling, surprisingly, my .20-250 after several hundred Coyotes has very little carbon. Could it be the different powers I use? I am very meticulous with my bore cleaning. Obviously not good enough. Aside from the bore pastes, everything else failed. Nothing would simply remove carbon deposits by simply pushing a wet patch through the bore or allowing it to soak for hours or overnight in some cases. Carb-Out and Slip 2000 would do a minimal job when used with a bronze brush with hours of brushing. Any ideas? Thanks, Gary |
#2
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Bore cleaning
gnaymola; More details man, If you are not getting your bores clean I bet a lot of us are not either. I have always assumed the patch told the story, if still black, keep after it with a bronze brush. Patch, soak, brush, patch on and on till the patches look clean.
I would be very interested to know more of what your seeing. Funny, the more I do this shooting thing the more I see there is a heck of a lot more to learn. Suppose that is why I love it so much, Challenging. THANKS sgtg out |
#3
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Have you tried a water based solvent? Is there still a water based or water soluble solvent? - Was the old admission (1990's BR circuit) of using a water soluble solvent actually useable, ie: did it remove carbon buildup?
Much scrubbing with bronze brushes scares me concerning damaging the barely .002" deep rifling.
__________________
Daryl |
#4
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Somewhere I recall reading that Hoppes Black Powder Solvent was a good Carbon remover .
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#5
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Any carbon cleaner and 10-20 strokes with bronze brush, flush out with solvent and repeat...........
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#6
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How did the rifle shoot after using all those different cleaners? How did it shoot after you got the barrel perfectly clean?
I use a pretty basic cleaning process with Butches, Kroil, bronze brushes and patches. Don't have a bore scope...it would probably drive me crazy if I did. Based on my targets, I'm satisfied I'm getting my bores "clean enough". |
#7
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Look up the formula for Eds red, add a little kroil to it. That will remove most carbon fouling with minimal effort. If you ever clean a forcing cone on a revolver you will find the Eds red and kroil will work better than any store bought cleaner you can buy. The only one step remover is oven cleaner. DO NOT USE ON BLUE BARRELS. On S'S barrels after cleaning if you don't think all the carbon is out put some ez out oven cleaner on a patch and run it through the barrel. Wait 5 minutes, then a clean patch. If it Come's out black you still had carbon in your barrel, rinse with water and oil after doing this.
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#8
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I've had good success (at least I think so according to the patches) with a regimen of: Pushing one dry patch through the bore to catch what's loose; 10 strokes with a NYLON brush soaked with carbon solvent (Motorvac MV 3 or SeaFoam, usually); dry patch; 10 more strokes with carbon solvent soaked brush; dry patch; run through a couple of patches soaked with favorite copper solvent, let it sit for a few minutes, patch out; one more patch soaked with carbon solvent; dry patch; finish with a loose patch with a little Kroil on it.
My rifles never see bronze brushes. Some barrels clean easier than others, and I don't know why, but generally this does the trick for me. Just my two cents' worth. |
#9
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Heres a link to a story I posted last fall. Hope it helps.
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#10
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Spray carb cleaner - wet the barrel by spraying through the breech (yep, you will actually keep the little red straws around now!), dry patch, spray again from the breech, brush with stiff plastic bristle brush, followed by your normal routine.
A tight dry patch will let you know if there is anything left in the bore. Fortunately or not....I don't own a bore scope...yet! |
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