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  #11  
Old 01-02-2018, 11:40 AM
JSH JSH is offline
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If this is a factory TC tube for your 221, I would take the extractor out while checking things.
Bellm has some good info for sure. Mike is very opinionated at times. I use some of his stuff but a lot of gadgets that are not needed are there as well.
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2018, 03:50 PM
sgtg sgtg is offline
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Default Contender head space

This is my take on head space for a Contender, nothing should touch the breach face and that means the barrel or the cartridge, let the locking lugs their thing,
( lock the same every time ).
On the cartridge, 2-3 thousands from breach face.
Reason; One thing that will affect accuracy a lot on a Contender is loading the breach with different pressures, this shot clears by 2-3 thousands the next shot LOADS the breach face by several thousands, contenders are sensitive to this.

Screw the die down until you achieve 2-3 thousands clearance, back of cartridge to breach face, (feeler gauge).

Get a CASE head space gauge, Widden has nice ones, measure THAT CASE, THAT NUMBER IS TRUE TO YOUR GUN, (many things contribute to that measurement on YOUR GUN, Contender are very individualistic ) stick to that number.

Mike Bellm is pretty sharp with TC's, his spring kits, hinge pins and info, are very good.

Good luck with your TC. sgtg

Last edited by sgtg; 01-02-2018 at 04:00 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2018, 04:45 PM
sgtg sgtg is offline
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Default TCU's

I have the 6mm and 6.5mm TCU They come out of the die nearly 100% formed ,push them down case touching breach at near to O head space (with extractor out), reinstall extractor, fire a bunch of brass then adjust die to 2-3 thousands clearance, again with no extractor, then reinstall extractor and start working loads.
Whatever you do make sure of 100% lockup, two things ruin Contenders, (especially older models) less than 100% lockup caused by too long of cases and too hot loads. good luck to ya. sgtg
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2018, 11:37 PM
Jingle Jingle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtg View Post
I have the 6mm and 6.5mm TCU They come out of the die nearly 100% formed ,push them down case touching breach at near to O head space (with extractor out), reinstall extractor, fire a bunch of brass then adjust die to 2-3 thousands clearance, again with no extractor, then reinstall extractor and start working loads.
Whatever you do make sure of 100% lockup, two things ruin Contenders, (especially older models) less than 100% lockup caused by too long of cases and too hot loads. good luck to ya. sgtg
Thank you for the advice. I'm very excited about it and it is an old one (1979). I got rid of the H&R handi and bought the contender. Its in perfect condition, I can't even believe it really.

I just want to make sure I do everything right from the get go concerning it being a break action. I learned a bit with the Handi and even though it shot OK groups I was never satisfied. I'm going to load up 10 rounds with either AA1680 or H4198 with some 50gr sierra biltz and see how she go's?

Now I need a 6TCU, damn this site, it really does have a way of getting in your wallet, lol

Last edited by Jingle; 01-02-2018 at 11:39 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2018, 03:54 PM
sgtg sgtg is offline
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Default head space

Jingle; To your original question, Regardless of what cartridge you shoot in your Contender (or rifle for that matter) excessive sizing is never good for reasons already mentioned.

On your Contender NOTHING touches the breach face, barrel, extractor, or cartridge, it messes with the lockup Per Thompson Center, years ago you could call TC and get any question answered.

Thompson Center told me that most of the reason why they came back to them damaged was locking lug not locked completely when fired, that coupled with too hot of loads.

If you are shooting factory ammo or new brass in a factory barrel you'll be fine.

When you reload for your Contender push the brass down to 2-3 thousands head space, you never want to ( load ) a Contender.

Good luck Happy New Year sgtg
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2018, 04:11 PM
wally bennett wally bennett is offline
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very limited to my re-loading calibers only done 22H, 222, 243, 17A/H, 17HH, but read loads of manuals and books and in my opinion it is never necessary to push shoulder back PROVIDED you are loading for the one gun, you are loading to the design limit of that caliber the case once fired expands to the exact chamber size of that one gun then shrinks to the original size provided you have not pushed it over its elastic limit and it is not too hard ie it dont need annealing/normalizing i myself anneal after every firing i used to put all my fired cases in a box till i got time to re-load some had been fired once for forming then once with full load but some had multi firings but when i seated the bullet some were easier than others to seat my limited brain power said if its harder to seat its also harder to release so it will put pressures up and could go over the safe limit/design envelope that it was made for with my current gun a 17A/H now has over5,000 up its spout i have about 350 cases lot of them have been loaded 15/18 times never had a tight chambering not lost a case through splits in neck or shoulder or separation once fired with full load i only neck size to the depth my bullet goes in the case by backing of my F/L Die
I think i got it sorted
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2018, 04:14 PM
VAHunter VAHunter is offline
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I never touch/bump shoulders unless I need to.

On most of the rifles I reload for, I can go about 4x with only neck sizing, then have to bump them back a hair.

I neck size with my FL dies. I raise the ram to the top of the stroke and lower the die till it contacts the shellholder. Then I'll back that die way off and color the neck with a sharpie. Keep lowering the die until about 3/4ths of the neck or a tad more is being sized. (Doesn't work on brass fired in another chamber.)

I don't see a reason to move any more brass than is necessary. Not saying my way is right or the best, but it's worked for me for about anything I've loaded for.

As of late, I've been using Lee Collet dies instead of my normal FL sizing dies, and my reloads seem to be a tad more accurate (think less run-out) and it's a lot easier by skipping the lube.

In addition to buying a FL die set for a new rifle, I'm going to start buying a Lee Collet and Redding body die. That seems to be the most painless way that I've tried so far.
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2018, 06:09 PM
Jingle Jingle is offline
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My first adventure in reloading was for the H&R handi 22-250 and 243.

I bought Lee Classic Loaders which only neck size. The problem I ran into was while reloading once fired brass from that handi rifle, some of the brass would not chamber properly. I did figure out if I turned the case to the exact way it was in the chamber when fired it would close up "better".

I ran out and bought a single stage press and Hornady die sets to full size the cases and that was how I learned a lesson with that rifle. Even some factory rounds made for a spongy lock of the action. I never bothered to check head space on that rifle as I feel like I would be chasing my tail.

The .221 Nosler brass measures very consistent and closes in the contender action no problems. I guess I'll have to see what the brass does after I fire it.
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2018, 06:28 PM
sgtg sgtg is offline
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Default bumping shoulders

VAHunter ; You are right don't push shoulders back if you don't need to.

You will most of the time get more case stretch with a Contender than a bolt action because the Contender is a more springy action, that is why you will find yourself pushing shoulders back to maintain that 2-3 thousands head space that is necessary on this type of action.

Contenders are a little different than your bolt action.

Given initially the same head space in my 20 Vartarg rifle VRS. my 20 Vartarg Contender the Contender stretches the case a third more than the rifle.

The rifle brass lasts much longer for the reason you said.

Welcome to the forum, lots of thought provoking stuff, COOL
again Happy New Year To All sgtg
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:21 PM
JSH JSH is offline
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After having played with a pile of TC's in various calibers I have ways that work for me.
When crowding a cartridge to the upper end, yes they will spring. Even more so with some cartridges I deem questionable for the action, won't get into that here.

A bit of measuring will go a long way. Measure a mid range load. Then measure one at or over the top. That will form a base line of sorts.

I push my 7-30 waters, so I bump the shoulders.
My 30-30 cast bullet load I do three reloads. Then a shoulder bump and anneal. I started on the CB thing folks said I was nuts. First year was a LOT of learning with cast. Second year I had the doubters hushing up. Took several state championships.

One thing not mentioned and I will touch on it. Do not apply LUBE of any type to the locking lug area !! The design is made to run dry and clean. Excess solvent is a problem also. It will allow auto eject, which can be ugly. 99% of this type of issue is lube where it doesn't belong. The other 1% is from brass sizing issues.

As mentioned a brisk snap shut, not slammed. If it doesn't feel right, open and close it again.
Also be aware, if you cock the Contender, do not break the action open until after you have let the hammer down!
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