#11
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I do not have a bore scope so take this for what it's worth. I believe the Kroil gets the powder fouling loose. The Butch's helps. The Wipeout with the accelerator after setting overnight, the patch come out peanut butter brown. My assumption is this is the copper fouling.
This cleaning routine is used in a short time period in the PD towns. Overnight is what i'm partial to. |
#12
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#13
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It is good stuff. Not quite as abrasive as JB and others. I use it every once and a while just to make sure there isn't any carbon build up I am missing. I only use JB on really stuborn bores that copper foul badly.
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#14
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[quote=Helipilotm;149445]I could be wrong but... I use Wipeout and I was assuming blue=copper fouling grey/black=powder fouling, brown/red=carbon.
In my experience, brown/red is generally rust. Never a good thing in any bore. Kroil liberally applied with a loose patch and left overnight does a good job of loosening rust. JME Aaron
__________________
I have come to the conclusion that guns are a lot like women, no matter how ugly they are, someone will always take them home!! |
#15
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Stainless barrel......... 416SS i think. Last one was a Pac Nor ,3 groove 11 twist,204 bore.
Rust possible???????? The blue came out with the Butch's Boreshine.Unless it was a result of the jag. |
#16
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Says right on the Patch-Out, Wipe Out label that the brown is carbon fouling, the black stuff is powder fouling & the blue is copper. Also, it is best to use an aluminum or SS jag so you won't be fooled by the solvent etching the copper out of a brass jag. I'm thinking that Dewey may be the ones making aluminum jags & maybe SS can be had from K & M. I use Denny Philips one piece SS Ivey Rods, and would highly recommend them to anyone wanting the very best. I have a pair of rods for each bore size, one with a loose fitting jag & one with a tight fitting jag. With this approach I can use the loose jag to do most of the cleaning, then the tight jag to finish up, saves bending rods. Yes, I have bent a few too tight fitting rods in the past. And, of course, don't forget a good bore guide, like the 2 pc made by Mike Lucas.
hornetboy, one other thing about JB. I have always shot Danzac (tungsten disulfide) coated bullets in my 30BR benchrest rifles. My cleaning regimen was the Berger-Sinclair method for moly coated bullets. That method is: 2 wet patches with your favorite solvent (I used SC #7 & Butch's), followed by one dry, then a patch saturated with JB short stroked through the bore, one dry patch to push out most of the crud, 2 wet patches, then 2 dry patches. I did this only once/day regardless of how many rounds were fired. The barrel I used to win most of the matches was a Krieger that I finally retired with over 9,000 rounds on it. At that point it would still shoot match winning accuracy, but the alligatoring in the throat was bad enough that it would begin to copper before very many rounds, making it impractical to continue competing with it. Now, with the Patch Out, I just go through the wet patch & soak regimen, then a tight dry patch followed by a quick borescope inspection. If I'm not satisfied at that point, I'll short stroke a JB saturated patch though the bore, followed by 2 or 3 more wet patches, then finish with 1 or 2 dry patches. |
#17
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Thank you for your detailed reply Joe, and also to all the others who have contributed thus far!
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#18
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Iosso or not ?
There isn't any abrasive in Iosso . If you have a severely neglected bore than JB will help a lot . JB bore brite is more abrasive than bore paste . Either one will help and won't harm the bore . Only repeated and excessive use will result in harming the bore . This comes from a guy with a bore scope . My theory is that the 17 with it's very small bore , actually liquifys bullet jackets (partially) in anything with a case bigger than the Fireball/Mach IV case , 3600-3700 being the max speed the 25g bullets should be pushed in my opinion . I've been shooting the Mach IV for some 40+years now !
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#19
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#20
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JB or IOSSO (OR NOT)?
IME bronze brushing and/or chemical cleaners work well for most of the time, but eventually JB, Iosso or KG2 will be needed to remove hard fouling/carbon buildup.
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