To Bee or not to Bee? That's my question.

[caithness77]

Hello all,
Have a little cunundrum I'd like some input on. I have two Ruger #1s in 218 Bee, one in an 'S' and the other in a 'B'. The 'B' version I have had for many years and have found the accuracy going off a ways with a load that delivered 1/4 MOA. When I compare the rifling in both rifles the 'B' has not got the sharpness that the 'S' has. Sure I know that doesn't mean it's worn out, far from it. But the 40 grainers I was using cant be seated out any further. So the thought crossed my mind of converting this rifle to a 218 Mashburn Bee. More suited to shooting the 50 grain pills that would give me the flexability with seating depths.
The rechambering cost is minimal so the main exspense will be the dies. Already have plenty of new Bee brass for forming.
Any thoughts from those pathfinders that have explored the 218 Mashburn Bee?

Cheers,
Stu

[SmokinJoe]

Stu, it has been my experience that once a barrel is worn out, the best thing to do is replace it with a new one. You can have it set back & rechambered to whatever & that will give you a bit more life out of that barel. However, you may not get all that accuracy back in the process & it won't last as long as it did originally. One great thing about either is your ability to control what reamer is used & get specs more in line with your desires. I would think that setting back a #1B & getting everything lined back up might be fairly expensive compared to working on a bolt gun, so make your money count the most you can.

[Chuck Miller]

If the intent is to just leave the barrel it's original length and open it up to a Mashburn I'm not sure you'll gain anything other than 200fps and an empty wallet, the 2 are the same length. Actually any 218Bee case fireformed in a Mashburn chamber is going to be less than the std Bee in length. If your willing to lop off an inch which will really increase the smith cost and that will get you past your worn throat and restore accuracy....it's still iffy. I own 3 Mashburns but in the real world I'm not convinced that they are any better than their original configuration. Usually they're a custom chamber which has the potential to be better than a std factory chamber, but that's about it...forgot...they look neater. Downsides are short neck, lack of cheap dies, need to fireform. If your accuracy problems are in the first 1" of the barrel you could possible open it up with a longer cartridge to get past them, if not then going with a Mashburn is not going to solve it.

So...my advice is to throw caution to the wind, pull out the check book, rechamber to Mashburn, if that doesn't work, pull out the check book and replace the barrel. I believe that falls right into line with the Saubier Mentor Policy handbook.

[rick w.]

I suspect that you will find that the standard 218 Bee and the Mashburn will be pretty much the same case length. Guess you are figuring with a longer bullet, some more throat life might be there to reach. One could certainly insert another type of bullet and see if it engraves or not with the standard case. Of course, one could just try the heavier/longer bullet in the standard bee and see what gives with the barrel as is.

I am a admirer of the Mashburn for many reasons myself.

If I had a 1/4" Bee in a Ruger no.1, I would look to keeping the barrel too. Even if it looses a step, cannot be all bad. I have never had a factory barrel perform like that for me.

If you do go to the Mashburn with the same length of barrel, then the update for the guy doing the work is fairly trival. Spin the barrel off, use the Mashburn reamer, and put it back to the index marks. Mashburn dies are pricey most times. Some hotrod the standard bee to Mashburn speeds, but often loaded fairly hot, depends on how you feel on that subject.

If you are thinking of barrel set back, then how much does one consider? Some do a neck length just to get the neck/throat all one continuous movement. As always, more than one/two/three turn setback will alter the cosmetics of the barrel/forearm fit, and will have to hack on the rear of the quarter rib(if it is retained).

With Ruger No.1 factory barrels that I have had, I just pull them and put on an after market blank. More money in the additonal work but tis the way I think. I have a stack of take off Ruger No.1 barrels. The orginal barrels look nice, but I have been spoiled by the aftermarket types. I have had to learn the rebarreling process to do that savings.

Another option that some do with the Bee in a No.1 is go up a notch or two, say to a 223 or a 22BR. Cost is down a ways from a full blown redo, only a chambering really, no rib or cosmetics to worry about. If it shot well before, moving down a ways in the barrel proper might be worth it; sadly, one will never know unless you try it. If you do your own work, tis free. No.1 extractors are about 8 bucks.

Some folks have the persception that the 218 Bee No.1 is a collectable. So if you are a true believer in such, then that adds to the conversation to bee or not to bee.

[william t. oviatt]

This is just my thoughts on one possibility:
Re chamber to a 219 Zipper/Donaldson Wasp, would be a simple change to do and if it did not work, a new barrel and extractor would get you right where you want to go.
Bill

[Bayou City Boy]

Originally Posted by Chuck Miller

.....in the real world I'm not convinced that they are any better than their original configuration. Usually they're a custom chamber which has the potential to be better than a std factory chamber, but that's about it...forgot...they look neater. Downsides are short neck, lack of cheap dies, need to fireform. If your accuracy problems are in the first 1" of the barrel you could possible open it up with a longer cartridge to get past them, if not then going with a Mashburn is not going to solve it.

So...my advice is to throw caution to the wind, pull out the check book, rechamber to Mashburn, if that doesn't work, pull out the check book and replace the barrel. I believe that falls right into line with the Saubier Mentor Policy handbook.

Righteous words....

-BCB

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by caithness77

Hello all,
Have a little cunundrum I'd like some input on. I have two Ruger #1s in 218 Bee, one in an 'S' and the other in a 'B'. The 'B' version I have had for many years and have found the accuracy going off a ways with a load that delivered 1/4 MOA. When I compare the rifling in both rifles the 'B' has not got the sharpness that the 'S' has. Sure I know that doesn't mean it's worn out, far from it. But the 40 grainers I was using cant be seated out any further. So the thought crossed my mind of converting this rifle to a 218 Mashburn Bee. More suited to shooting the 50 grain pills that would give me the flexability with seating depths.
The rechambering cost is minimal so the main exspense will be the dies. Already have plenty of new Bee brass for forming.
Any thoughts from those pathfinders that have explored the 218 Mashburn Bee?

Cheers,
Stu

Even if you can do your own work, factory number 1s in 218 Bee are collected by a fair number of people. I would likely be inclined to sell it off while it is still shooting good. I have a 218 Bee in Ruger number #3, the Mashburns are no faster, and the cases are actually a tad shorter. The longer bullet is unlikely to get out far enough. If I were going to set back the barrel I would take off an inch and rechamber it to 218 Bee. Cheaper dies and still a factory original chambering.

[Mntngoat]

Hey Stu if you weren't in Oz id like you shoot my #1 in .17KB and you would be throwing rocks at that .218Bee

ML

[Mntngoat]

[quote=Chuck Miller;152320
So...my advice is to throw caution to the wind, pull out the check book, rechamber to Mashburn, if that doesn't work, pull out the check book and replace the barrel. I believe that falls right into line with the Saubier Mentor Policy handbook.[/QUOTE]

well said Chuck!

ML

[Joe O]

Why not rebarrel to a 20VarTarg.Or 17/20 Ackley Bee.Bigger smiles with all three,