Annealing in the case forming process

[drewh]

Anybody ever experimented with annealing various places during a multi-step process? I am forming 20 viper from 300 BLK brass - in the steps 25,22,20 and it seems like the brass is work hardened after the .22 stage. This seems to give less consistent headspace length at the 20 stage, and since I am going to be turning necks I want that to be as close as possible case-to case. Would annealing after the .22 neck down improve that?

Drew

[Johnly]

I think hard brass neck turns easier as compared to annealed brass. I'd neck turn at 22 then perform the last sizing step to 20, then anneal. I've had issues with annealing cases, then trying to form them as the shoulder sometimes collapses.

John

[Nor Cal Mikie]

It's a matter of trying something and seeing if it works for YOU. If the brass gets TOO SOFT, you end up crushing the shoulders back. Makes junk brass real fast.

[drewh]

Good suggestion John, I will try that. Nor-Cal - I have lots of practice making junk brass - actually quite good at it

[sgtg]

drewh; What is the parent case for the 20 Viper, and case length? sgtg out

[drewh]

SGTG, I am using 300 BLK cases, the case length of the viper is 1.350 and the neck is .050 longer than a vartarg. Reduces capacity to a working load of about 15 grains of powder to push the 24 grain NTX bullet in the neighborhood of 3600.

[sgtg]

I wonder if 222 brass wouldn't be a little closer.
If it were me I'd try a 222 or even a 223 case and see how it goes.
Anneal it after you get to where you want to go unless cracking becomes a problem. sgtg out

[Jim D]

Currently I'm working down some military 5.56/223 brass, down to 17 FB.
There is a lot of variation from one manufacturer to another.
I have new LC 13 brass, that the necks come out of the first step crocked, running the through a 221 Trim die.
While some once fired Speer 09, that have been prepped and cleaned in an Ultrasonic, come out near perfect.

Neither were annealed before sizing, trimming or turning.
I'd agree to wait and see after working a few, before annealing. I will anneal when done.
I also turn the necks of the trimmed brass after the 221 trim die size. When I'm done squeezing the necks down to 17, they are a shade over .0013 thick. Then turn and trim again to final dimensions, then anneal.

Jim

[drewh]

John, the suggestion seems to work well, I had to get the mandrels, still doing the fiddly bits to make sure I have the right neck thickness at the end. Thanks again for the suggestion.
Drew

Originally Posted by Johnly

I think hard brass neck turns easier as compared to annealed brass. I'd neck turn at 22 then perform the last sizing step to 20, then anneal. I've had issues with annealing cases, then trying to form them as the shoulder sometimes collapses.

John

[drewh]

sgtg,
I did try some other cases, it was even harder because the work area is far below the factory annealing and you have to use a cutoff saw or tubing cutter to remove the excess. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Drew

Originally Posted by sgtg

I wonder if 222 brass wouldn't be a little closer.
If it were me I'd try a 222 or even a 223 case and see how it goes.
Anneal it after you get to where you want to go unless cracking becomes a problem. sgtg out