#1
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223 brass to 20 VT brass - What are the steps required
I was talking with a friend of mine that is the range officer for the sheriff's department and told him about my Cooper 20 VT. The next day he brought me a 5 gallon bucket of once fired 223 rounds. Do to insurance regulations, they use factory ammo for qualifications and not reloads so I know all the brass is once fired.
So since I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands I thought I would make this into 20 VT brass. I've done a lot of research and it seems there are several methods used, but none of them see to follow the same steps and sometime not even the same dies. Is there anyone here that actually makes 20 VT brass from 223 brass that could give me not only the steps to make the brass, but which dies I will need. I currently have the Redding 20 Vartarg die set which includes the FL body die. Thanks Last edited by jimreed1948; 01-29-2019 at 07:35 PM. |
#2
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223 brass to20 VT brass--what are the steps required.
My old shooting buddy/partner makes them up when the weather is cold and blistery out. He would give you some quick and easy steps to follow, I am sure. Lurking Varmint Shooter ? Bill K
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#3
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I have formed 20VT brass from both 222 and 223 brass. Several methods will get you there, here’s how I form 20VT:
1 - I use the Redding 2 die case forming set to form the parent brass into 221 brass including the major trimming step using a hacksaw then a file. 2- full length size using a 221 sizing die. 3 –full length size using a Redding 20VT Type S Full Length Sizer die with a 0.233 bushing. 4- full length size using a Redding 20VT Type S Full Length Sizer die using a 0.227 bushing. 5- neck turn so a loaded round is 0.230. 6- anneal necks. 7 – final trimming. 8- final full length sizing. The truth is, starting with Lapua 221 brass is a better option unless one needs 100’s of cases. My rifle is a Cooper 38 Varminter.
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Bill Idaho |
#4
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Quote:
Thanks for the information. That's what I was looking for. |
#5
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I use double ended forming dies and a mini chop saw set up with a stop to cut to length after all the forming is done, anneal then run through a Redding 20VT FL bushing die and trim length on case trimmer then turn necks to a .228 loaded neck dia. for a .232 neck chamber.
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#6
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I use pbike257's shoulder set back die and bushings for forming 20Vt brass.
Also with this die and bushings you can form 221 Fireball, 20VT, and 17 Fireball, as well. 20VT and 17FB after formed and trimmed, run through FL sizing die. Will have to neck turn. I turn mine to .012 for a .232 neck for the 20 VT. Something to do on long,cold winter days. |
#7
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I have a single sheet print out that I send out with formed brass. It lists my process, step-by-step and specifies Redding part numbers. It's not the only way to get there but, it has formed thousands of cases on my bench with very little trouble. If you want a copy, PM me your' email address. If anyone here would like to post it for the masses, I will email it. I'm not handy enough with computers to do so myself.
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#8
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This is Ramos' procedure he uses to make 20 VT brass from 223.
Thanks for the information. |
#9
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Be careful........
.......before you get down this road too far.
Carefully check that the once fired 223 casehead web areas have NOT expanded to a larger diameter than your fired 20VT brass out of YOUR 20VT chamber. You may run into "bolt-click on opening" issues, if the once fired 223 cases are not squeezed enough during FL resizing........such that firing again, the case web area tries to return to it's original fired 223 chamber diameter......and does NOT "spring back" very slightly. Hope this helps. Kevin |
#10
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223-20vt
Although I prefer to use only new 223 brass but if I have to use fired brass I run them through a 223 full length small base die first before starting the neck down process . Don't know if that is necessary but I have never had a problem.
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