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Old 11-02-2017, 01:08 AM
Danny Danny is offline
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Default Does anyone have a CZ 527 out?

I just finished a trigger rework on my LH CZ 527 .223. I put in a spring that is very near to OEM dimensions and, aside from the wire diameter, it is visually undetectable from the original. It installs and sits in the trigger assembly identically to the original, sitting on the counterbore in the trigger, not slipping down into the threaded portion of the weight of pull screw. I got a pull weight of 1-1/2 lbs minimum, up to how much, I do not know, as I did not check. I would have preferred being able to get a minimum of 1 to 1-1/4 lb. minimum, then set it for 1-1/2 lb., but I was limited to what I got from what I could get in springs. My first attempt with another lighter spring was way too light. I got lucky and found a suitable spring or two at work. I was finding nothing via a Google search.

I set mine up to use the set trigger, with the pull weight in harmony with the set trigger weight, about 6 oz. or so. This reflects my thinking that the extremely light set trigger would rarely, if ever be used, and if so, likely during load testing, or stationary field use from a very steady rest, and not a bipod. The 1-1/2 lb. unset weight is what I think would be good for me when shooting this from stationary positions, ie a bipod. For me, I will not ultimately use it as a walking varminter, even though it is currently a sporter. I envision it having a heavier barrel one day.

Here is my question, as I did not check out the trigger pull carefully in original condition before starting on the work. Can anyone notice the slightest free play in the trigger when pulling back. This is not motion where the trigger is actually causing the engagement to lessen. It almost feels like a dual stage trigger, but it is almost imperceptable. Let's call it sort of an amount of play. I touch the trigger as delicately as possible, then there is a slight movement back, then a slight metal to metal "bump". From there on out, pulling actually starts to function the trigger, resulting in engagement changes.

Does anyone else notice that from their trigger?

Thanks,

Danny
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Products that I am looking for but can't seem to find no matter how hard I look:
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I video recorded all of my Highpower Rifle matches. Pretty soon I am going to watch them all in reverse order so that I can watch those F Class guys GO HOME and leave us alone so that we can shoot Highpower Rifle.

Last edited by Danny; 11-02-2017 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 11-02-2017, 05:55 AM
Swift220 Swift220 is offline
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Yes, my new 222 has it in the set mode, CREEP. I don't care for it but it's there and I haven't adjusted anything, yet.

Jim D
SE Texas
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:10 AM
Danny Danny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift220 View Post
Yes, my new 222 has it in the set mode, CREEP. I don't care for it but it's there and I haven't adjusted anything, yet.

Jim D
SE Texas
Jim,
Thanks. I am referring to play in the trigger, and while in unset mode. What I think is going on is that this is the result of having the set trigger built into the mechanism, that it is a trigger that consists of two pieces, the lever and the sear. I think, but I have to review instructions on how people talk about adjusting the set trigger to not function, that this play could be tuned out, though I would not do that. If I find that this play is normal with an active set trigger by looking at what happens when it is tuned out, I am ok with it. I understand that if it is the case that some do not wish to use the set function and this play can be removed by disabling set function, I see a worthwhile pull quality gain for those that wish to go without.

Danny
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The 11th Commandment: Thou shallt not fold thy Pizza.

Products that I am looking for but can't seem to find no matter how hard I look:
Leopold Scopes, Forester reloading equipment and Victorianox knives.


I video recorded all of my Highpower Rifle matches. Pretty soon I am going to watch them all in reverse order so that I can watch those F Class guys GO HOME and leave us alone so that we can shoot Highpower Rifle.
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:26 AM
B23 B23 is offline
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There are adjusting screws on the front side and one on the back side, the one on the backside of the trigger assembly will eliminate the pretravel or creep as some call it.

I don't like using the "set" feature of the trigger in these 527's when shooting for groups because it made me move the gun to much when I pushed it forward to set it. I have the trigger in both of my 527's at crisp 10 ounces and couldn't be happier.

Last edited by B23; 11-02-2017 at 06:29 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:29 AM
Swift220 Swift220 is offline
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B23,

I'd love a crisp 10-12oz trigger on both of my 527's. Is it hard to do? Is it hard for you to explain how? If you could I'd be so very grateful. If you feel like explaining it to me, I'll leave my email address below. Many thanks,

Jim D
SE Texas

Email: danielj222@comcast.net
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Old 11-02-2017, 02:32 PM
B23 B23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swift220 View Post
B23,

I'd love a crisp 10-12oz trigger on both of my 527's. Is it hard to do? Is it hard for you to explain how? If you could I'd be so very grateful. If you feel like explaining it to me, I'll leave my email address below. Many thanks,

Jim D
SE Texas

Email: danielj222@comcast.net
Jim, it's actually pretty easy so not a problem at all.

I started by replacing the factory spring that affects pull rate with a new one that I bought from James Calhoon. There are three different adjusting screws on the front side of the trigger assembly. The top screw "A" is the one that controls pull weight. In order to get the old spring out you have to take the screw completely out. The factory spring will not come out through the threaded hole so you have to dig it out with a pick, from behind. It's a little tricky but not a big deal. The new spring is much smaller and will go in through the hole.

After you get the old spring out and the new one in you thread the adjusting screw back in the hole until you get the desired pull weight.

As I mentioned earlier, there is an adjusting screw on the back side of the trigger "B" that controls pretravel and allows you to eliminate pretravel/creep. It's kind of a balancing act until you get the trigger set where you want it so don't be surprised if you have to go back and forth, adjusting both screws "A" and "B", until you have your desired pull weight.

If you get the pertravel adjustment set to thin it either won't reliable reset the trigger or worse yet, it'll go off from being bumped so make sure you test it before actually using it so the trigger is safe and doesn't go off on its own.

Here is a link that'll help describe what all the different adjusting screws are for. Be careful not to assume the first spring you see, which will be at adjustment "B", is the spring you replace because it is not, the spring you replace is behind "A". http://cz-usa.com/news/the-cz-single...rigger-system/

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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Old 11-02-2017, 02:35 PM
Daryl Daryl is offline
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Mine CZ factory trigger is adjusted for 20 ounces unset and 4 ounces set. I like it. I usually don't set it.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2017, 02:52 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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My CZ 221FB came from the factory at 2 lbs unset and 12 oz set. Haven't changed a thing.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2017, 08:59 PM
Danny Danny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl View Post
Mine CZ factory trigger is adjusted for 20 ounces unset and 4 ounces set. I like it. I usually don't set it.
Daryl, I assume that you had to replace your trigger spring and set the trigger up yourself to get that? I am pretty close at 1-1/2 lb. and 6-8 oz. or so. I would set my trigger for 20 oz as well, preferred, but I am limited by the spring I found. Still, 1-1/2 lb. is pretty reasonable.

Danny
__________________
Danny

**************************************************

The 11th Commandment: Thou shallt not fold thy Pizza.

Products that I am looking for but can't seem to find no matter how hard I look:
Leopold Scopes, Forester reloading equipment and Victorianox knives.


I video recorded all of my Highpower Rifle matches. Pretty soon I am going to watch them all in reverse order so that I can watch those F Class guys GO HOME and leave us alone so that we can shoot Highpower Rifle.
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2017, 09:14 PM
Danny Danny is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 845
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by B23 View Post
Jim, it's actually pretty easy so not a problem at all.u

I started by replacing the factory spring that affects pull rate with a new one that I bought from James Calhoon. There are three different adjusting screws on the front side of the trigger assembly. The top screw "A" is the one that controls pull weight. In order to get the old spring out you have to take the screw completely out. The factory spring will not come out through the threaded hole so you have to dig it out with a pick, from behind. It's a little tricky but not a big deal. The new spring is much smaller and will go in through the hole.

After you get the old spring out and the new one in you thread the adjusting screw back in the hole until you get the desired pull weight.

As I mentioned earlier, there is an adjusting screw on the back side of the trigger "B" that controls pretravel and allows you to eliminate pretravel/creep. It's kind of a balancing act until you get the trigger set where you want it so don't be surprised if you have to go back and forth, adjusting both screws "A" and "B", until you have your desired pull weight.

If you get the pertravel adjustment set to thin it either won't reliable reset the trigger or worse yet, it'll go off from being bumped so make sure you test it before actually using it so the trigger is safe and doesn't go off on its own.

Here is a link that'll help describe what all the different adjusting screws are for. Be careful not to assume the first spring you see, which will be at adjustment "B", is the spring you replace because it is not, the spring you replace is behind "A". http://cz-usa.com/news/the-cz-single...rigger-system/

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
I went it on my own, just using some Remington 700 trigger instructions that I found on the net. I used the technique for the screws that are on the CZ. Once you identify what each screw CZ uses for each function, the technique is the same as for Remington.

I ended up doing mine twice because I was not sure how I wanted to get that spring out. I ended up taking the trigger apart and removing it from the back. I also found it simpler to take out both front screws completely, with overtravel being first to get access to the pull weight. I set and locked pull weight first, then went to the back and set engagement, then went to the front and set and locked overtravel.

My first CZ 527, a Lux Hornet came set from the factory with a set trigger so super light that all you had to do was to lay your finger up against
it and it would fire!
__________________
Danny

**************************************************

The 11th Commandment: Thou shallt not fold thy Pizza.

Products that I am looking for but can't seem to find no matter how hard I look:
Leopold Scopes, Forester reloading equipment and Victorianox knives.


I video recorded all of my Highpower Rifle matches. Pretty soon I am going to watch them all in reverse order so that I can watch those F Class guys GO HOME and leave us alone so that we can shoot Highpower Rifle.

Last edited by Danny; 11-02-2017 at 09:26 PM.
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