#1
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Small brass, high volume annealing question
Hi,
My experience annealing .19 Badger brass has not been good. It is probably not practical for me to purchase an expensive machine, deal with the learning curve on properly using it, and probably not use it much. Has anyone had experience with DJ's Brass Restoration? I like the idea of just getting it done properly and over with. I have 500 that need annealed. Any suggestions? Thanks, Neil |
#2
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Neal
Have you thought of going this route, I also didn't like the high prices of the annealers out there and went this route, quite long reads on both of these sites, but well worth reading thru them in IMHO. I went this route, and took the best from both builds for me, add the case senor also, cuts the cost also. http://68forums.com/forums/showthrea...ealing+machine http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/43...g_Machine.html There is a brass annealing outfit on Accurate shooters forum, I'll have to find it for you. HTH, Tia, Don
__________________
"ANY person that fears me owning a firearm, then I have reason to not trust that PERSON" ------------------------------------ "We must reject the idea that every time a law's broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for their actions." Ronald Reagan |
#3
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Building an annealing machine has been on my 'to-do' list for a few years now. I figure a guy can build a good one for less than $100.00 by stealing elements of several different machines on the web. Not sure when I may get around to building it, though.
I don't know anything about DJ's, or what they charge. Could be worth giving them a try, or at least visiting with them if you just don't want to anneal them yourself. I do all mine the old fashioned way. Cordless driver with a deep well socket and a single torch. Five hundred pieces would take me about two hours if I just sat down and did it. The reality is, I would split them into two batches and spend close to three hours. I would do 500 pieces for $50.00 plus flat rate shipping charge if that helps in any way. |
#4
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My experience runs like ramos said . Doing Hornet brass manually takes about 5 seconds each with my 30 year old propane torch. Bigger brass might take slightly longer, maybe 1- seconds each. Break it up into batches of 100-200 and your will be done in no time. Use a clock/timer to time the operation until you get the cadence for proper annealing.
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#5
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Find a friend out there with the capabilities and time, send over a box, include a return shipping label and do the shipper contact yourself when ready, i.e. make the shipping process painless for the annealer, there would probably be several people that would do this for you.
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#6
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Hi,
I sent 500pcs. to DJ's just to get them done and ready for the season. (USPS flat rate is great!) I have a few pcs. that I will practice the drill/MAPP torch with and see how good I can get with it. Last time I over annealed a few and got pretty annoyed with myself when primers blew. At last inspection I was losing about 20% to cracks at the base of the necks, so it will be nice to have the problem cured for a while. I bought Lapua .221 brass for those rifles. Buy once, cry once, I hope. Thanks, Neil |
#7
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Damn Neil!!
Annealed primed brass with a torch? Ain't that way up on the STUPID list?
__________________
George "Gun Control is NOT about guns, it's about CONTROL!!" |
#8
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I know, I know....George, I get learnt the hard way.
Actually, the only real problem I found if a primer blew is the barrel gets fouled and my accuracy goes off 2-3" at 100yds. My greatest fear is that in a heavily infested skippy patch it could be extra frustrating watching my buddys blow up skippy while I clean my rifle. I can't let that happen.. |
#9
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MAPP gas is way hotter than propane..................just sayin'.......
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#10
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My thinking is that with MAPP and the smallest tip available, it heats the target area faster and minimizes the time for heat to travel down the case.
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