#31
|
|||
|
|||
Whatever brass "neck size" you end up with, figure maybe .002 to .003 over that for the chamber neck size. A .254 neck seems a little fat to me?
If they are in fact THAT THICK, turn a few and see how they look. I would be concerned that they would be a little on the thin side? Keep in mind, they WILL change as they get fired and resized. In your first post you mentioned sizing some Lapua brass to 20 VT and the loaded neck came out to came out to .248? You can't size it down .020. It has to be neck turned!! That's pretty thick brass. (Mikie likes it) If it was consistent and you had a GOOD STASH, I'd be tempted to go with a .250 or .251 neck. Whatever brass you end up using, don't turn it anymore than you need to. And if my thinking is off, don't anybody be afraid to jump in and correct me. Last edited by Nor Cal Mikie; 09-21-2020 at 08:18 PM. |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Bill K,
Could you advise what you consider a "proper equipment"? Hi Nor Cal Mikie, Quote:
Your neck confusion is due to my arguably imprecise language. As I have Lapua .221 FB to use as a reference, I am resizing to these dimensions for learning purposes, with the ultimate goal to be VarTarg. The resized .223 case measures the 0.254 inch. so, subtracting 0.02 for the further resizing to VarTarg, the resulting dimension will be 0.234 inch. Hence my question whether the difference of turning by 0.002 inch or 0.004 inch make a difference. Essentially, the question is whether it is better to have thinner, thicker, or does not matter brass on the neck. Did I muddy the water even more? I am very good at it. ;-( Kindest regards, M Last edited by mefizto; 09-21-2020 at 10:15 PM. |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
A good neck turning tool that several put on the market. I use the Hornady one, but also have a small hand turning one, from another company.
|
#34
|
|||
|
|||
The further we dig, the more muddy the water gets. We WILL get it sorted out for you.
I didn't want to neck turn but finally gave in and found out it wasn't as bad as I had made it out to be. Got my neck turning tools from K&M. Maybe a little expensive compared to others but all good stuff. You need to check them out and watch a few videos so you'll see what it takes. I would rather be pulling the trigger than be stuck turning brass. Anything necked down will have fat necks so it's almost a must. That moved brass has to go somewhere and it ends up in the neck that in turn, has to be turned off to fit the chamber neck. If it was me starting out, I would be looking to see what reamers are available before I decided on a neck size. I found out about fat necks when my newly formed VT brass wouldn't chamber. In my case, no getting around neck turning. Mike. Last edited by Nor Cal Mikie; 09-22-2020 at 01:03 PM. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
I have made probably 1500 - 20VT and 20SCC cases from LC 223 brass its really not that difficult with the right tools.
I use Bullberry double ended forming dies to get them down to the proper shoulder length then a mini chop saw with a stop to cut the extra neck length off anneal then run through my FL sizer and turn necks to .228 loaded for a .232 20VT chamber neck. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Nor Cal Mikie,
thank you for your patience. Unless I am missing some concepts, there are two issues left: 1. Does the thickness of the brass matter. I am neither metallurgist nor experienced re-loader to answer the question. In other words, will a thicker brass, e.g., turned down to 0.230 with chamber 0.234 last longer than a thinner brass turned down to 0.228 inch with chamber 0.232 inch? And even if there is a difference, is it practical one? 2. What is the "best" tool, the term "best" being defined as one that is easy to set up and operate. It seems to me that I would rather save pennies and buy such a tool than be cheap and frustrated by the awkwardness and time to make the tool to operate. Hi L.Sherm, do you have any opinion on the two questions? Kindest regards, M |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
John |
#38
|
|||||
|
|||||
Hi 410gauge,
I appreciate your well meaning post. Quote:
Second, or perhaps a corollary of the first, it is my understanding that once an acceptable load for the center-fire is establish, the rifle will shoot well for a long time. Thus, no repeated testing of ammunition. Finally, I am not sure that I mentioned a price per se, but rather the need of great monetary outlay when buying a lot of ammunition at one time. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Kindest regards, M |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
Hi JohnHenry,
Quote:
As I understand it, it is a matter of brass consistency. So, after one learns how to re-form brass, and picks a single good manufacturer, should this not be sufficient? But, this is currently a second order issue to the two I am trying to decide. Kindest regards, M |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
John |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|