#11
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Good, I hope all is ok with the next scope.
I have had a half-dozen V-24's and they have all been flawless. I currently have one on my One-Shot rifle and really like it for that application. drover |
#12
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I had about the same problem as you with a scope I bought and had sitting around for a few years. I tried to get it bore sighted and it looked like no matter what it ran out of adjustment before it would be sighted in. After actually starting to shoot it, I could get it into a good zero. I think the grease in the scope had hardened and only after the recoil of actually firing it with live ammo and real recoil it shook loose and the scope could be adjusted for a little more. That it, it had frooze upe from stiff grease.
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#13
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I shot the scope from square one ( the first shot) .Shot, elevate, shot, elevate etc. until the elevation knob hit the end. Still 2" low.
Returned the scope and decided to just stick with my V16 as it has preformed absolutely great and I'm only shooting at 50 yards. But hey, thanx for your input. V |
#14
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my vote as for some thing to check for is a BENT SCOPE look it over in forword ring. spin the scope in the rings I made a jig to check for bents tubes and to check for scope box test. clamps to bench at the range
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#15
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Another thing to consider is the 6-24 only has 27" of travel for elevation and windage which means 13.5" up and 13.5" down. Not much room for error in mounting. The 4-16 has 41" which allows for more error in set-up.
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#16
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The scope was NIB so I think bent scope is out.
218 Bee - Thanx for that bit of information. No wonder I ran out of elevation. V |
#17
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Quote:
There's always those wonderful Burris Signature Zee rings, the ones with the inserts that allow shimming. I had some issues with a cockeyed receiver and I was able to "fix" it with those rings. It was a lot further "out" than 13.5", too. |
#18
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Those zee rings are just the ticket...……………..
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#19
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The Burris Signature Rings are what I have been using for years. Helps solve lots problems, include poorly manufactured rifles.
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#20
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I once had a Redfield hunting scope with the very limited movement of reticle, the rep had to tell me such though.......was not smart enough at the time.
Some folks will zero(center) a scope on a known apparatus before mounting on the rifle/mounts of the day. There is some precision in the drill tap and mounting systems. I run an adjustment knob to the max, then back it off to the reverse max counting some reference, clicks; marks. I then move half way back. I do such for both x and y knobs. One then should be able to set the scope in a known apparatus, v-blocks, whatever you got, and spin the scope, the reticle should be pretty steadily centered with a little run out perhaps. One would think if one adjustment is against its stops already, the other movement might be hindered, but not thought much about that. I then put the touched(centered) scope onto the rifle of the day and its mounts, one can repeat the whirl check if so wanted on the bags. With the scope mounted, bore sight the scope thru the bore(bolt guns etc) to the target. Where is the scope reticle at this time to the target. If the poi visually thru the glass is way more than the bore sight, then one might take a looksee in the mounts. I have never grown to like shimming, but just my opinion. As said before, there is some precision in the drill/tap/mount business, sadly sometimes is lacking. I once saw scope mounting procedure by T.J. Jackson, kinda a particlar gunsmith, his procedure was several pages long, pretty intense most of it. A 6x24 in some models has no parallax adjustment fwiw. |
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