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  #11  
Old 02-12-2021, 04:00 PM
Daryl Daryl is offline
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I've never had trouble with after finishing when using the commercial chemical paint strippers for removing old finish, whether a linseed oil or poly/epoxy finishes.
I have no idea what would have been done with it, to encourage problems afterwards.
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2021, 04:11 PM
Bayou City Boy Bayou City Boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl View Post
I've never had trouble with after finishing when using the commercial chemical paint strippers for removing old finish, whether a linseed oil or poly/epoxy finishes.
I have no idea what would have been done with it, to encourage problems afterwards.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS..........

Try to remove the treated finish with a rag or fine steel wool. This will leave any finish in the pores in place to serve as a base for oil finishes.

In addition, wiping down a stock with fine steel wool soaked in gasoline or mineral spirits after the stripper is removed (outside with protective gloves on, of course...) will remove the "chemicals" left by the stripper.

-BCB
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2021, 08:15 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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What both Daryl and BCB said. Finish and cleanliness is the key to any quality surface finish whether the surface is wood or metal.
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2021, 08:55 PM
Herb in Pa Herb in Pa is offline
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Did some contract work with a commercial stripper for a time. We used a 3 step process..1 strip with a solvent base & rinse, 2 strip with a a hot caustic solution & rinse, Final was a hot bleach dip with a rinse then dry. Believe me, you didn't have to worry about any finish remaining. Did a couple of government jobs on some friends stocks they looked like they just came off the line and as a bonus any dents were steamed out
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2021, 10:33 PM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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I used chemicals to strip this Remington 700 which was washed with plenty of water and scrubbed with steel wool, I wanted all the finish removed from the grain.

The finish which I used after that was done was sanded in Tung oil till all the grain was filled and then I rubbed it back to wood with rottenstone.





All the long black streaks in the below photo are grain that has been filled with tung oil and sanding dust...…..that took a number of applications to get all of them filled.



The easiest bit to do was the forend tip and gripcap, from recollection they had that glow after about 2 coats of tung oil


Lucky I wasn't doing that as a paying job I think it took a number of months to finish that stock.

I also did a Winchester 9422M XTR the same way, what I found under the original finish was an awesome piece of Walnut that certainly didn't show through the original finish. Pity the forend didn't match the buttstock...…………...Kiwi
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2021, 11:09 PM
Bill K Bill K is offline
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That really turned out very fine Kiwi. Great looking stock/finish.
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2021, 03:04 AM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill K View Post
That really turned out very fine Kiwi. Great looking stock/finish.
Thanks Bill, I do love the look of a tung oil finish.
That stock has seen rain, snow and freezing temps, it hasn't moved or swelled up...……...Kiwi
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2021, 07:42 AM
camel camel is offline
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Yes, it is amazing to find what is hidden under the garbage they plaster all over a nice piece of walnut, and other timbers for that matter. The only thing I found with those gloss finishes is they make the wood shiny.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2021, 06:54 PM
barretcreek barretcreek is offline
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Beautiful job, Kiwi. Tung oil with alkanet root is what I am planning to use.

Thanks all.
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2021, 08:05 PM
Herb in Pa Herb in Pa is offline
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Default Lurking under my 1710's finish

[IMG][/IMG]
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