#11
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Quote:
Hello Bill. Clearly, you have an earlier model based on the serial number. It was very likely made in 1992 as I had one four digits from yours, which was made in June 1992. I still have a copy of the factory product spec sheet from mine. It states a Shilen Match Chrome Molly with a Stainless Steel version as optional. Both are listed as 6 grooves with a 1:10 twist. I also have Cooper-listed loads for Hammett 18.6 & 22 gr. and Hornady 25gr. flat base bullets. However, I doubt that the longer Hornady V-Max 25gr. bullets would stabilize in a 1:10. Hope this helps. Don
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NRA Lifetime Endowment Member Last edited by thekriebles; 11-25-2017 at 04:19 PM. |
#12
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If the twist is one in ten then the 25 grain should stabilize? Although I recorded jam depth on the 22 Berger, I show no data collected on anything heavier then the 20 grain Berger and VMax. From my notes the chambering on this rifle shows OAL (compartor reading to case base) to be the shortest for the Hornady 20V Max and longest for the 18 grain Berger.
To paraphrase what that means is that the ogive to bullet base on the V Max was longer than the ogive to base on the 18 Berger. Meaning I have more bullet in the case neck with the V Max than the 18 grain Berger. That makes sense. I'll be trying the 25 flat base hollow point Hornady to reach the lands and to get some depth into the case neck case. I'm not looking for + 3,100 fps anymore. I'll settle for 2,500 to 2,800 if I can consistently get a half in group at 100 yards. And if used on squirrels the slower velocity might not evaporate the critter. I know what the 15 and 18 grain do to prairie dogs. We gotta remember that the CCM predates the 17 HMR or the WSM. Its going to be just for the fun of it anyway. From my load data I show 1680, H4227 and N120 to be options I'll start with. Lil Gun gave me most of my sticky extraction problems. I just may dabble with Bullseye or Unique. Just gotta see how things go with what I've used in the past for now. Going through my old loading notes reminded me about how much we learn from year to year. Although I show some signs of intelligence 15 years ago I found I was using rifle primers and shooting groups in unrealistic conditions. Translate that the mean that I shot when I had time, not when you could realistic read wind flags. Thanks for clearing up the question about serial number confusion. Guess I was thinking that you re-chambered it to a different cartridge. If this goes well I may send a case to PTG and have a reamer cut and put on a new barrel. That ought to buy a couple years of fun. And speaking of fun, this 10 yard thing is a blast. Shooting repeat 5 shot groups in zero wind conditions is proving valuable. With the K Hornet, I just load four 5 shot groups in 2 click increments (example; Bullseye @ 2.0, 2.2, 2.4 and 2.6 grain. Redding pistol measure). Repeating that two or three times shakes out false impressions. Certainly way better and more time effective for me than loading at the range or bringing a few selections with me to try in what ever conditions are present. And the darn thing about the CCM or the low velocity rounds in the K Hornet is that shooting them is like eating popcorn. You just can't stop. Extrapolating POI has been made a lot easier with the ballistic software we have on I phones these days. Although it needs to be verified you can easily get on target at 50 yards after you run the bullet ballistics. After I finish the K Hornet I should be able to calculate zero at 100 yards within an inch with any other rifle. With my rimfire's it came out to about .875 low at 10 yards to be zero'd at 50. Everything depends on the scope height to center of the bore, to the bullet's ballistic coefficient, to the velocity. Take care and thanks for the conversation. Bill. |
#13
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Trail Boss is worth trying too. The loads I tried a couple of years ago were fairly accurate at 50 yards, not too spectacular at 100, using 20 grain bullets, probably V-Max and Midsouth Varmint Nightmare Extremes. Usual Trail Boss formula applies.
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#14
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I've read a bunch about trail boss and about 5744. Haven't tried either yet but I may pick up a lb of each. Cabelas has the RCBS electrnic powder measure on sale and there's a rebate from RCBS worth about $90. I could get the powder then if its on the shelf.
Back in the day I tried both 296 and Lil Gun with various fillers. I was so juvenile at the time I didn't understand what fillers did to pressure. And like I said earlier, I lost more cases to Lil Gun than any other powder. To the group: If you were starting out fresh again would you begin with Shroeder's, Reed's, Fiocchi drawn brass, Fiocchi "one shot" or the original lathe brass from Cooper. I have enough of everything but the Reeds to give it a go. I'm longest on the Schroeder and shortest on the lathe turned brass. I need to buy some from Reed's to see how that compares to the Schroeder. My records shows that the best brass I used was the original lathe turned brass after annealing and the worst was the one shot brass. Once I get a load I can live with, the setup I have will make it be pretty easy for me to load five pieces of brass multiple times to see how long it holds up. And shooting 8 or 12 more 5 shot groups will assure the load and give me more bench practice. Take care. Bill. |
#15
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If I had a good supply of it, I'd go with the Fiocchi drawn as a first choice, followed by lathe turned. I've kicked myself in the butt often wishing I had bought more than two boxes of the Fiocchi drawn when it was available.
As an aside, if I did work up a load with either kind (or any kind for that matter), I would reduce and start over if I wanted to use the load in another kind of brass. |
#16
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Agree completely about your choice of brass. And your chagrin of not buying the Fiocchi drawn brass. But I'm going to skip the easy way out and start out with what's repeatable and go with the Schroeder or the Reed's. Thanks all.
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