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  #11  
Old 01-10-2019, 12:24 AM
Johnly Johnly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david s View Post
Hornady One Shot case lube (aerosol) works for me spray twice and it gets in the nooks and crannies.
That's what I use as well for the very same reasons.

John
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2019, 12:30 AM
Johnly Johnly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxhunter View Post
and everyone's favorite release agent is? I use bee's wax dissolved in 111 trichloroethene (no longer available)
Chlorinated brake cleaner uses tetrachloroethene and should work just as well.
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2019, 02:39 AM
georgeld georgeld is offline
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Paste wax I've never found a way to get in the small cavities where it's needed.
My fat fingers won't go into such places either.

I've used spray furniture wax and done well with it. 2 or 3 coats to make sure
letting it dry well each time.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2019, 03:22 AM
long shot long shot is offline
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I fill the nooks and crannies with modeling clay so there is no worry about getting bedding compound in them. Brownells release agent is tough to beat. I've used it since 1981 and have never had a reason to look for anything else.

Aaron
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2019, 06:38 AM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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I have about 3/4 of a 60gal drum of Tric sitting at work, used to use it for degreasing and cleaning transmissions by heating it and suspending the parts in the vapour.

For bedding release Kiwi shoe polish just can't be beat and a tin goes a very very long way...……..Kiwi
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2019, 02:42 PM
foxhunter foxhunter is offline
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i had a 1 gallon can of 111-tri 30 years ago. over the past 30 years it has managed to seep or evaporate through the tin can. I am now down to about a pint, had to put it in a quart jar and seal the top with wax.
easy to apply with a q-tip, it gets into everywhere.
if it escapes I will try the kiwi wax. thanks for the info.
over the years I have used devcon, marine tech, jb weld (regular and quick). I noticed Thomas “Speedy” Gonzalez recomeds marinetech and kiwi wax, so that's good enough for me.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2019, 10:43 PM
Eddie Harren Eddie Harren is offline
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If Speedy said it, you can "take it to the bank" as Dan Rather once said! LOL
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  #18  
Old 01-20-2019, 11:29 AM
Mark527vARMINT Mark527vARMINT is offline
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Ive only bedded one rifle so not as much experience as you lot,
But here goes cz527V in 17Hornet , Bought it new ran the barrel in 25 rounds cleaning between each shot. It didnt shoot very good at all 1" to 1 1/2" at 100yds, So i though i would have ago my self if i failed id but a new stock .

Watched a few you tube videos and decided to do it as per video got the dremel out took a bit of timber out , made a well to stop flow near the action and put small bit of blue tack in the forend of the stock , i also made brass pillars which got epoxied in .

The bedding compound i used was JB Weld with shoe polish as a release agent, strapped up with elastic tube over night, (Now me thinking it will not come apart).

Well no need to worry it parted very easy.

All back together bore sighted back on range first 3 shots touching at 100yds
so i put 5 in same group ,Take about either been lucky or what lol.
I then zeroed it back to 50yds where i normally have it so it shoots flat to 250 yds. cant be any happier.

BUT i let someone have ago with it he shot it as good as i could then DISASTER he dropped it on the concrete floor muzzle end, I never shot that one again he did how ever buy me a new 17Hornet.
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2019, 03:56 PM
rickiesrevenge rickiesrevenge is offline
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I think the scariest part is single point cutting the threads on the receiver. Down in that hole its tough to see that the cutter is perfectly aligned.

Aaron
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