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  #11  
Old 02-09-2017, 02:39 PM
nvreloader nvreloader is offline
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Guys
I don't know if I posted this info before,
so here is some info on these 2 sites for DIY annealers,
both are long reads, but lots of info contained,
I am building the "Skips" design, with a couple of mods to make it better.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/43...g_Machine.html

http://68forums.com/forums/showthrea...ealing+machine

HTH,

Tia,
Don
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  #12  
Old 02-09-2017, 03:49 PM
GrocMax GrocMax is offline
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http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thr...redux.3908353/

More better. Mine shows up about pg 16 with a Dillon case feeder.

Last edited by GrocMax; 02-09-2017 at 03:53 PM.
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2017, 06:59 PM
MickMiller MickMiller is offline
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If you're doing little cases like 17ah, 17hh or 17squirrel Skip's build might not be the best option. Did you see the bench source style one I made?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Au0wS9zFFzI

Excuse my plastic hand, I had fallen in a ditch dragging two deer backward through the wood and snapped my thumb!
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2018, 11:14 PM
flyrod flyrod is offline
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I've built a few induction annealing devices and I shoot a few different wildcats. When expanding brass I've had best results by annealing the brass first. When trying to stretch out hardened brass it tends to split. When shrinking brass it seems to be less critical, because pushing brass into a bushing or die is compressing it. Annealing between steps of of necking down brass can help, but as others have mentioned if the brass is very soft and the necking steps are large the shoulder can collapse. One trick is to anneal further up the case so the neck is significantly softer than the shoulder. This is easier with induction heat than with a torch.

Another trick has to do with what you need in the formed wildcat: whether you want a thicker neck or a longer case. Necking down brass will tend to elongate it. If the brass is softer when doing this the resulting case will be shorter and thicker than the same process applied to a hard piece. There's a little bit of an art (or maybe just trial and error) in working out the best forming process. Again, I've had good luck with induction annealing as I can more precisely control time, temperature, and location of the heating.

For neck turning I anneal just before running an expander button through the neck. This gives less spring back and the necks are more round and uniform on the ID, which works better with the neck turning mandrel and the irregularity gets cut off the OD.
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2018, 12:36 AM
GLWenzl GLWenzl is offline
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Forming 22 Jet brass into 17 Jet was the most challanging case forming I’ve encountered. Like you Drew I became quite good with making scrap brass. My largest issue was cracked/split shoulders.

IIRC what worked best for me was to do a very light annealing concentrating on the long sloping shoulder before necking it down. It didn’t take much or it would collapse a case at the neck shoulder area. I tried to advise over annealing in that area! Then neck it down and light’r up again doing another light annealing advoiding too much heat on the neck and neck shoulder junction. Now if the case made it through the loading and bullet seating process (yes I lost some seating bullets). Then I would go fire form. If they made it this far I would aneal the shoulder area for the last time. Annealing after case forming and again after fire forming only would cost me about one split shoulder every 15-20 cases.

To compound issues it seemed to me that all brass isn’t created equal and that in itself lead me to change my annealing meathod.

I always had best luck with the hotter map gas. Get the heat to it fast being mindful of the angle and the direction you are pointing the flame. Short cases I always quench but I guess some say it’s not required. It was just my little Passafire to make me feel better about not annealing the case head.

I use to think one way to not over anneal anything was to spin the case with your fingers but I even proved that wrong. I ALWAY anneal in the downstairs bathroom. Light is off and the door crack open only enough for me to safely work and see what I was doing. Sink 1/2 full of water. Normally spin cases with a light weight drill of some sort using either my Sinclair or heart case holder. You get good at stoping/reversing the drill and knowing how to drop the case from the holder into the sink.

I really enjoy annealing but that dang Jet case about took all the fun out of it! That is until good ole Ray made me cases from 357 max and 360 dw brass. Only 22 Jet brass purchased after that was for my 22 Jet contender barrel. I bought 1k each of the 357/360 for three different cases I need them for and am set for maybe life (case loss is almost unheard of forming those)
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