Dakota Varminter .222 Rem. - Advice Requested

[South Pender]

I've just received a new Dakota Varminter in .222 Rem. I believe the action is about 95% Nesika Bay, and I had them install a Jewell trigger.

In any case, I phoned Dakota about (1) the barrel twist and (2) action-screw torque and got confusing answers. Hence my post here. First, the person at Dakota Arms didn't seem to know what twist they used with their .222s (I gave him the serial number to check). He asked me to check the target that came with the rifle to see what weight of bullet had been used to shoot the target. I told him it was the 40-gr. Hornady V-Max. He then suggested that the twist would be 14. This didn't seem completely convincing to me.

Second, he checked with one of their technicians re action-screw torque and was told 65 in.-lbs. This seemed really high to me, but that's what they said. I should note that the rifle came pillar-bedded, and so maybe this torque might be OK. It would seem to be much too high for wood bedding.

As for the twist, I wasn't completely satisfied with the answer I got, so attempted to determine this myself, using the cleaning rod method. I don't feel that my attempts were that accurate, but after doing this 3 times, it seemed to be about 10". This surprised me, as the usually-stated standard twist for the triple deuce is 14, and some makers (Cooper, for example) use 12.

So a couple of questions to you experts on the forum.

1. How common is a 10 twist in .222 Rem.? And if this is, in fact, the actual twist in this barrel (A Douglas, I believe), should I look to somewhat heavier bullets (say 60-70 grain) for best accuracy?

2. What are your thoughts about the action-screw torque? The action has 3 action screws. I had the barreled action out of the stock to adjust the trigger and want to reassemble it with the right torque on the screws.

Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide.

[gzig5]

Regarding screw torque, 65 is on the upper end but should be OK if it is correctly pillar bedded. I usually run mine between 45 and 55.
Could be a 10 twist. I think 12 was standard. Ten would allow you to get into 60-65 gr bullets if you wanted but the 222 doesn't drive them fast enough in my opinion to give any benefit in the wind. I have always run 50gr in my Sako. If you are using it on varmints I think you'd be best served with 40-55gr bullets regardless of twist. Find which it likes best and go for it.

[218bee]

Originally Posted by South Pender

I've just received a new Dakota Varminter in .222 Rem. I believe the action is about 95% Nesika Bay, and I had them install a Jewell trigger.

In any case, I phoned Dakota about (1) the barrel twist and (2) action-screw torque and got confusing answers. Hence my post here. First, the person at Dakota Arms didn't seem to know what twist they used with their .222s (I gave him the serial number to check). He asked me to check the target that came with the rifle to see what weight of bullet had been used to shoot the target. I told him it was the 40-gr. Hornady V-Max. He then suggested that the twist would be 14. This didn't seem completely convincing to me.

Second, he checked with one of their technicians re action-screw torque and was told 65 in.-lbs. This seemed really high to me, but that's what they said. I should note that the rifle came pillar-bedded, and so maybe this torque might be OK. It would seem to be much too high for wood bedding.

As for the twist, I wasn't completely satisfied with the answer I got, so attempted to determine this myself, using the cleaning rod method. I don't feel that my attempts were that accurate, but after doing this 3 times, it seemed to be about 10". This surprised me, as the usually-stated standard twist for the triple deuce is 14, and some makers (Cooper, for example) use 12.

So a couple of questions to you experts on the forum.

1. How common is a 10 twist in .222 Rem.? And if this is, in fact, the actual twist in this barrel (A Douglas, I believe), should I look to somewhat heavier bullets (say 60-70 grain) for best accuracy?

2. What are your thoughts about the action-screw torque? The action has 3 action screws. I had the barreled action out of the stock to adjust the trigger and want to reassemble it with the right torque on the screws.

Thanks in advance for any insights you can provide.

1. No, a 1-10" twist is not common for a 222 Remington, but it doesn't mean that you don't have a 1-10". Your cleaning rod test should provide a very close answer.

2. 65 in/lb is way too much for a wood stock. You said it is pillar bedded and I assume they glass bedded as well. If the bedding is done right then just hand tighten everything to snug. No need to use a torque wrench/screwdriver. If you feel you have to use a torque wrench/screwdriver then no more than 25-30 in/lb and you will be fine.

A few months ago I ordered a rifle from Dakota and I was really disappointed with their customer service. They never returned my emails concerning my rifle. When I called they couldn't give me a good answer either, assuming I actually got someone to talk to because most of the time I would have to leave a message which no one returned. I finally got disgusted and cancelled my order. I hope you have better luck.

[South Pender]

Originally Posted by 218bee

A few months ago I ordered a rifle from Dakota and I was really disappointed with their customer service. They never returned my emails concerning my rifle. When I called they couldn't give me a good answer either, assuming I actually got someone to talk to because most of the time I would have to leave a message which no one returned. I finally got disgusted and cancelled my order. I hope you have better luck.

My experience has been like yours. First, I couldn't get through to the Dakota line (Dakota, Nesika, Remington Custom Shop, Marlin Custom Shop). When I pressed "1" for Dakota, I was told to leave a message, and then a voice came on saying that they couldn't do that. This went on for three days. I finally got through by choosing "0" for operator, and miraculously finally got a chance to leave a message--which I did three days running, with no response. Finally today, I called the "0" option again and managed to get a guy to whom I put my questions. His answer regarding twist was obviously just a guess. He seemed to infer that since a 40-gr. bullet had been used in the target test, this must mean the slow, 14, twist. But it clearly is faster than that. My best guess at this point is 1-10.

I had them install a Jewell trigger. The rifle arrived with the Jewell without a safety. This teed me off a little. For the kind of shooting I'll be doing with the rifle (a single-shot), a safety isn't crucially important, I guess, but somehow it doesn't seem quite right without a safety. And there's the gap in the wood where the safety should be.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the safety. It would be a major hassle to send it back across the border (I'm in Canada). I could, I guess, purchase another Jewell trigger--with the safety--and have a gunsmith up here install it.

One question about the 1-10 twist: Will I be at a disadvantage with this barrel if I choose light bullets--like 50-52 gr.? I understand the logic of using the slowest twist possible that will stabilize bullets for best accuracy.

Thoughts?

[218bee]

Originally Posted by South Pender

My experience has been like yours. First, I couldn't get through to the Dakota line (Dakota, Nesika, Remington Custom Shop, Marlin Custom Shop). When I pressed "1" for Dakota, I was told to leave a message, and then a voice came on saying that they couldn't do that. This went on for three days. I finally got through by choosing "0" for operator, and miraculously finally got a chance to leave a message--which I did three days running, with no response. Finally today, I called the "0" option again and managed to get a guy to whom I put my questions. His answer regarding twist was obviously just a guess. He seemed to infer that since a 40-gr. bullet had been used in the target test, this must mean the slow, 14, twist. But it clearly is faster than that. My best guess at this point is 1-10.

I had them install a Jewell trigger. The rifle arrived with the Jewell without a safety. This teed me off a little. For the kind of shooting I'll be doing with the rifle (a single-shot), a safety isn't crucially important, I guess, but somehow it doesn't seem quite right without a safety. And there's the gap in the wood where the safety should be.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the safety. It would be a major hassle to send it back across the border (I'm in Canada). I could, I guess, purchase another Jewell trigger--with the safety--and have a gunsmith up here install it.

One question about the 1-10 twist: Will I be at a disadvantage with this barrel if I choose light bullets--like 50-52 gr.? I understand the logic of using the slowest twist possible that will stabilize bullets for best accuracy.

Thoughts?

I am sorry you are going through the troubles with Dakota. It sounds very frustrating. They should reimburse you something for their mistake, but it would probably be impossible to actually talk to someone who could manage it.

I think you will be fine with the 1-10 twist and 50-52 grain bullets. If you plan to use the Hornady SPSX or the Sierra Blitz, there may be a problem because they have super thin jackets and the faster twist could cause the bullets to come apart. Definitely check with the manufacturer. I have a Tikka in 223 Remington with a 1-8 twist and I shot some of my best groups this past weekend with the 45 grain Sierra #1310. That bullet has a tougher jacket and it's meant for use in the 22-250 and 220 Swift.

[Herb in Pa]

This should explain a lot................

https://www.remington.com/news/2009/...es-dakota-arms

[SmokinJoe]

I have a bunch of Dakotas and really love those rifles. At one time I had a contact in Customer Service who was both helpful and accessible, but he has been moved to one of their operations in Alabama now. I have to wonder if the Remington group actually knows what the heck they are doing anymore. It's a pity because those are some of the nicest rifles you can buy, and are built to to top custom standards. As far as the bedding goes, all of mine are bedded as well as any custom I have ever had, and I don't torque the screws, just tighten them up pretty tight from front to back. As to your trigger issue, can you send the trigger only back for an exchange? The trigger is easy to R R. I can't believe they even had a no-safety, BR model trigger in their inventory. I have had .224 barrels from them in 10, 12 and 14 twist on various rifles. The really good news is that they have all performed well. One thing I do with every one I get, and these are all shooters, is send the bolt to Greg Tannel & have him bush the firing pin, remove & fill the ejector (still don't understand why anyone wants an ejector in a single shot varmint rifle), and check the bolt shroud/cocking mechanism for proper clearances. When the bolts come back they look like and perform like my benchrest actions. Hope this information is a little helpful and hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.

[Bayou City Boy]

Originally Posted by Herb in Pa

This should explain a lot................

https://www.remington.com/news/2009/...es-dakota-arms

Dakota Arms had tanked long before Remington got involved.

Charlie Kokesh officially killed off the great custom rifle company that Don Allen had started years before. Remington just picked up what was left after Charlie was done playing with it.........

-BCB

[South Pender]

Originally Posted by SmokinJoe

I have a bunch of Dakotas and really love those rifles. At one time I had a contact in Customer Service who was both helpful and accessible, but he has been moved to one of their operations in Alabama now. I have to wonder if the Remington group actually knows what the heck they are doing anymore. It's a pity because those are some of the nicest rifles you can buy, and are built to to top custom standards. As far as the bedding goes, all of mine are bedded as well as any custom I have ever had, and I don't torque the screws, just tighten them up pretty tight from front to back. As to your trigger issue, can you send the trigger only back for an exchange? The trigger is easy to R R. I can't believe they even had a no-safety, BR model trigger in their inventory. I have had .224 barrels from them in 10, 12 and 14 twist on various rifles. The really good news is that they have all performed well. One thing I do with every one I get, and these are all shooters, is send the bolt to Greg Tannel & have him bush the firing pin, remove & fill the ejector (still don't understand why anyone wants an ejector in a single shot varmint rifle), and check the bolt shroud/cocking mechanism for proper clearances. When the bolts come back they look like and perform like my benchrest actions. Hope this information is a little helpful and hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.

That's super-helpful and reassuring information, SmokinJoe. I was in touch with the seller today, and he has arranged for Dakota to send me a replacement Jewell--with safety. So I think I can get that problem solved via a local gunsmith. Other than the issue of the safety, I'm impressed with the rifle. As you have experienced, the bedding is superb. I was a little disappointed to see that it has a 1-10 twist barrel, but, from what you've said, it should still shoot well with the lighter bullets. Unfortunately, it will be several months before the weather is right for shooting up here. In the meantime, I've purchased a good stockpile of Lapua Match .222 Rem. brass, have turned necks, reamed flashholes, and am ready to start loading for it. I'll give some thought to the bolt work you've mentioned.

[SmokinJoe]

If you have some pin punches & a hammer, you can easily change that trigger yourself. You just knock the 2 pins back until the trigger will come out freely, then put the new one in and drive the pins back in place.