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  #11  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:58 PM
montdoug montdoug is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xring View Post
Montdoug , What surprised me is that you don't have to Strip the Finish to raise the Dings with steam.

If anyone has a recommendation on how to eliminate these Spots without stripping all of the Finish , I would appreciate hearing about it .

.
"Montdoug , What surprised me is that you don't have to Strip the Finish to raise the Dings with steam."

That's cause the finish is so soft and porous.
Trust me, I have steamed my share of Cooper stocks and I hate it . I use my rifles in the field a lot and as careful as I am, a few dings and water drops are unavoidable with Coopers due to the soft finish (pretty as they are!) they easily dent and water spot. That leaves with a choice of either living with the dings and spots which isn't in my make-up , or refinishing a brand new $2,000.00 rifle with a tougher, more durable finish, or constantly working over a stock....."OR".

"If anyone has a recommendation on how to eliminate these Spots without stripping all of the Finish , I would appreciate hearing about it.

I do!
Get a synthetic stock and all they make in synthetics are the one design of Phoenix which I like but how many of em does a guy want that all look the same?.

But on the other hand as mentioned, the 40X weighs a ton and would take three men and a boy to cart around in the brush.
It just came to me!!! Only answer is to get one of each, better yet, several of each .
Good question for a thread!
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montdoug

Last edited by montdoug; 11-27-2013 at 08:00 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2013, 08:26 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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montdoug and xring. I first got a Cooper M21 back in '98. I called Cooper and asked about what finish was on it and how to maintain it or touch it up. They suggest to use a furniture polish called Olde English Furniture Polish. It seems to work fine and looks great, but it is not for heavy duty use. It looks and feels like a solvent/light oil mix of some sort. I have also tried another product on used M21 I got a couple of years ago. It is "Howards Feed and Wax" and it is available at most Home Depot store I have seen. It is a mixture of solvents, orange oil and carnauba wax, and has a slushy texture. Jsut put it on and then buff up with a dry rag. Gives a little more sheen to the stock, but is not glossy. It also beads up water great, probably giving the stock more protection. It also works great for varnished furniture and rifle stocks like Winchesters. it also makes my 40X glossy like a car. YMMV, just what has worked for me, so far.

Last edited by TinMan; 11-28-2013 at 12:32 AM. Reason: typo
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2013, 10:02 PM
Bulseyetom Bulseyetom is offline
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Gentlemen, thanks for all the replies. I have a Tannel built 700 in a 6x47 Lapua and it shoots great but was looking for a smaller capacity case and a lighter barrel so I gave up on a switch-barrel. The Coopers have always caught my eye as the wood on some is incredible. The 40xb I saw has a short but heavy barrel so after what everybody says I might need a gunbearer for that rifle too! With the great State of California making me go to non-lead bullets soon I probably need to start from scratch and build a rifle throated just for a specific bullet in whatever caliber I choose. Good shooting and Happy Thanksgiving to all. Tom
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:33 AM
Bodei Bodei is offline
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I don't think I've ever shot less than 1/2" groups with my Cooper 20VT once I had my pet load settled. The perfect ground squirrel medicine.
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2013, 01:53 PM
cooperve cooperve is offline
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Default Cooper stock repair

I do not know about water spot repair on a Cooper, but

I was carrying my Cooper Classic .22 over my shoulder and got a broken barb wire strand caught between my stock and body and cut a scratch deep enough to cut fibers. I was sick.

Cooper told me they used DEFT - Step Saver - Neutral and Tint Base finish.
I wet sand the scratch area using the Step Saver with I believe 600 sand paper (with hard rubber pad). After thirteen wet sands the scratch absolutely could not be seen. It worked so well if I found a finger nail mark on any of my Coopers I wet sand the mark out.

This was on Classic made at approximately 2005 +/- and a couple Varmint Extremes from the early Dan Cooper period. I don't know if they still use the same finish, but assume so. This should also work on water spots?
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2013, 02:20 PM
ohiochuck ohiochuck is offline
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40 X -accurate, heavy, some made as repeaters
Cooper- lighter, most are single shots, also accurate
I own both prefer the Cooper for much walking- prefer the 40X if little walking is necessary.
Jim
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2013, 04:09 PM
Ted G Ted G is offline
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How times have changed, I remember those later Dan Cooper days. Lot a guys on here swore they would never buy another Cooper ! I still bought them just for the fact they have a good product ! Glad I bought all the ones when I did seeing what they go for now! My most accurate gun though is a custom Stolle panda action in 223 ackley 1/8 twist broughton barrel 69 gr sierras . Will do .3's-.4's all day long. If I really tried and is a good day as far as wind every now and then I get into .2's. Love the .223 ack., but the countless pds. and gdhgs don't like it ! Can't wait to get a hold of one of the new model 51s in the 223 ackley !

Last edited by Ted G; 11-28-2013 at 04:12 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2013, 08:42 PM
xring xring is offline
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Cooperve , I've been given different answers as to what Cooper used for a Stock Finish over the years , but the last information about a year or two ago was the Deft Product you mentioned . I had one heck of a time getting it . No one in my Area carried Neutral and Tint Base , and no one could order it . I got the same answer from almost everyone on the Internet . I did find some at a large Outfit ...I think on the West Coast . Where did you purchase your Deft Neutral ? I will try your method as well as those suggested by TinMan when I get a chance . Thanks for the suggestions !
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2013, 11:33 PM
drover drover is offline
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They are still using the Deft product. One Step neutral base. I bought a can of it a few years ago and it lasts forever.

To the poster who is sanding out even minor nail marks - simply rub a drop of the One-Step into the scratch with your finger, and unless it is fairly deep, it will disappear.

drover
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2013, 03:12 AM
cooperve cooperve is offline
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Default Xring

I also had trouble finding the "Deft" Step Saver in Neutral and Tint Base. I went to their site and called the number. Told them what I needed. They got me in touch with the Northern Ohio sales representative. He took a can home for me and I had to drive to his house about 60 miles away and purchase it from him.

I later found it at a small town Lumber Company in Dresden, Ohio. I'm pretty sure the place burned down and is no longer open.
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