#21
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I have one of the Savage model 40's. It's a rimfire action basically with two rear locking lugs. The bolt handle forms both locking lugs as it passes completely thru the bolt body. It's actually a well made rifle and shoots pretty well. It was originally going to be offered in 223 Remington as well but I don't think it ever was. I don't think it would stand up to the pressure increase but I don't actually know. The only part of the rifle I would call cheap is the load ramp/ejector as its a rough stamped piece of thin metal. The rest of the rifles pretty good.
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#22
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TBR |
#23
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Not sure if this is of any interest or not. Savage model 40 in 22 Hornet. The action is basically a rimfire and the photo of the action with the bolt out is an attempt to show the feed ramp/ ejector, the only actually cheap piece on the rifle.]mg]
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#24
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Personal Update - I have decided to try a Howa Mini for my next Spitfire and CZ 527 for the Hornets. Ordered one of each, also bought a couple stocks for the CZ, one is the B&C varmint stock and the other is a pretty handmade stock from a guy in Oregon that I found while looking at CZ527 stuff on Ebay. Also ordered a couple SS mags from Calhoon and aluminum bottom metal for the Howa. BTW, there is going to be a BDL style bottom metal available for the Howa pretty soon.
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#25
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Believe it or not, TBR, but I have been thinking almost the exact same thing. My idea was to push the shoulder of a 221FB back about .150" and leave the neck long kinda like a 222. I think your cartridge will be very similar to that. I haven't pursued it because I'm having too much fun with the Spitfire right now. Will be interesting to see how that turn out. BTW, how are you forming the tanuki brass?
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#26
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BTW, my only problem with the Mini Howa was the plastic bottom "metal." Good news on aluminum bottom metal...I can't believe I am happy that aluminum bottom metal is available...always insisted on milled steel. Oh well, I, too, have evolved. TBR |
#27
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Thanks David.
__________________
John |
#28
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To correct the base diameter, I filled a brass FB case with lead, cut the neck and shoulder off at least .120" down the body of the case, (easy because it's solid now) and drilled the primer hole deep enough to run a screw into to hold in the drill. Spread a thin layer of lapping compound on a steel plate, and rolled the brass case against it using a second steel plate with medium force-just enough to get good embedment. Now, spin the shortened case in a drill, and you can polish up the base section of the die without changing the neck and shoulder area-this will let you form up some cases to try it out, without the expense of custom dies. |
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