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  #11  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:50 PM
TinMan TinMan is offline
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I know that MAPP is hotter, but I had the propane torch and a couple of years ago, I picked up 6 1lb tanks of propane at a yard sale for 50 cents each. Probably will be a lifetime supply.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2017, 09:44 PM
ben lurkin ben lurkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinva View Post
MAPP gas is way hotter than propane..................just sayin'.......
Except MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. Unfortunately, it's production ceased in 2008! It's substitute burns nearly 2000* cooler at 3730* while propane burns at 3600*. Save your money and buy propane.
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2017, 02:40 AM
Jim D Jim D is offline
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I've been dreaming up an annealer on this order, but instead of a fancy motor, use a 3/8" variable speed hand drill, with the dial on the trigger, to set the speed.
I also plan to use a can. Maybe a bean can or something of the right size.
I just haven't put it together. I do have a couple drills that will work.

Need to get at it !


Jim
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  #14  
Old 04-15-2017, 11:25 AM
JSH JSH is offline
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Some will say this is witch craft some not.
Water drop or air cool, IMHO the smaller cases need to be dropped in water to be on the safe side.
I did the cordless screw driver deal with so so success.
I still prefer to roll the rim/base between thumb and finger whilst in the flame. Point the neck and shoulder straight up! I have seen guys run into the point of the flame side ways, there can get to be to much heat miagrate too far down and quick.
Yes rolling between fingers is a pita. But I GUARANTEE you will drop the case before you ruin it, unless you have severe nerve damage.

The old stand and tip in a pan of water served me well for a long time and is safe.
Buddy had several thousand 45-70 cases that need annealed. He built an annealer similar to a Ken Light. Works fantastic, after you get speed sorted out and tips adjusted.
Even if I had 1000 to do I would still do them by hand in a couple of sessions if need be. It takes about the same amount of time to get everything set up right.

Now when one of us anneals, we make sure and make a few phone calls ahead of time in case some one has the same case size to do. Once it is set up it is just as easy to do 10K as it is 10.
He did a bunch, like several buckets full of 223 to be turned into 300BO in about the time it took to drink a pot of coffee.

Gadgets are nice and handy. I used to get caught up in them pretty bad. I would shop around for the best deal, time wasted. Then only to decide I would build one myself, time wasted. Then it would get little use, time and money wasted along with taking up space. Then finally sold or given away, and never missed or needed again. Still have a lot of better mouse traps collecting dust.

Nothing written in stone, just my take on some of the many things I have done.
Jeff

Last edited by JSH; 04-15-2017 at 11:28 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-15-2017, 10:18 PM
17brno 17brno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim D View Post
I've been dreaming up an annealer on this order, but instead of a fancy motor, use a 3/8" variable speed hand drill, with the dial on the trigger, to set the speed.
I also plan to use a can. Maybe a bean can or something of the right size.
I just haven't put it together. I do have a couple drills that will work.

Need to get at it !


Jim
I have built one of these annealers cost me about $70.00 nz to make (I already had the propane torch )my one has a proximity switch to stop the feed drum, save's having 2 speed controllers, works a charm the hopper holds 100 308 cases and the annealler will do them in about 10 minutes ,I shoot ftr and I anneal after every firing so it gets used a lot
Pretty easy to make (it must be if I could make one) there is lots of information out there just Google Skippy's case annealler or black betty case annealler
Ivan
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  #16  
Old 04-15-2017, 11:29 PM
1coolcat 1coolcat is offline
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I've been annealing my brass for years..It helps make it last, reduces neck tension, and is a must if your fire forming wildcat cases.
I enjoy reloading as much as I enjoy my time shooting, so learning to anneal brass was just taking my hobby to the next level..
In my opinion reloading can be just something we need to get done..Or an art form..We make it what we want that's the beauty of it.
I understand some guys don't have time to mess around with case prep due to time restraints..
I use to anneal by hand but it is an acquired skill to get consistent results , and if there is one important rule in annealing it is consistent dwell time in the flame..
I would strongly suggest (NOT) using mapp gas, as it heats to rapidly ..You want to bring the brass temp up a bit slower then mapp gas will allow you ( in my experience)
Once you over heat brass it is very soft ..You can still shoot it and reload a few times and it will get brittle again but accuracy will suffer.
There was a gentleman who developed an inexpensive automated homemade annealer that can be made for less then 100$ and put together in a couple hrs. Of your time..
Then your good to go .
Do a you tube search for Skips homemade case annealer. I made one and it does just what I need it to , it was a fun project , my annealing it now fast and consistent
But..Once again it takes time..I was thinking... if a person is in a rush reloading isn't a good hobby. this is one process that should be taken with care and respect..You don't want to blow half your face off with a bad powder charge next to your cheek..
Any how..Here is my home made annealer in action..Well worth the time I put into it..
Just my 2¢, thanks guys
https://youtu.be/GQM-cueMVqM

Oh by the way, the annealing is running fast in the video, I was just trying to show how it works ..haha

Also Google parts list, and build directions home made case annealer , and you should find what you need..( big thanks to skip in Australia)

Last edited by 1coolcat; 04-16-2017 at 12:16 AM.
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  #17  
Old 04-16-2017, 02:40 PM
NeilA. NeilA. is offline
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That is a very nice machine Coolcat! Thanks for sharing.

I also enjoy my reloading, and striving to maintain consistency with a usually 1200 to 1700 pc. batch size is what I try to accomplish. Actually, a mechanical annealer is looking more practical now.

I certainly have never had any problem with spending (actually thousands...) on rifles, optics and handguns that really don't get used that much. So I have an annealer that doesn't get used much?, should be ok.

Two of us go to Montana for a week in the Spring and sometimes a second trip in September. Spring trip- 1/2 gophers, 1/2 PD's. Sept. trip all PD's. We take 250 rounds each when leaving in the morning, that has always been sufficient. I know guys on the internet say they shoot 500 or even thousands in a day!- great!- my reality is a few over 200 on a really good day. Anyway, we primarily both shoot .19 Badgers, (I have been also enjoying my CZ.221FB on the last trip) and I have managed to keep the ammo variation quite minimal for many years now. Once I get the brass all annealed properly and consistently we should be good for several years.

Last edited by NeilA.; 04-16-2017 at 02:47 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-17-2017, 08:59 AM
1coolcat 1coolcat is offline
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In my opinion..And it's just my opinion..Lapua makes great 221 fireball brass which exceeds anything Remington put out. So you can't go wrong purchasing there products. If you want consistency this is the way to go. Shoot some then decide if you still want to annealer your cases
I like to anneal even new brass to reduce neck tension , I feel I achieve better accuracy that way..But it only last 2 or 3 reloading before the brass needs annealed again.
Some reloaders prefer to anneal every time they reload...I just don't shoot that well to take advantage of that regimen.
The thing is annealed brass is soft,...so..You pull your trigger the primer is struck and the powder ignited creating pressure..The case will expand and seal the chamber..With softer brass the seal is created much faster / earlier ( more consistent) in the ignition process creating less pressure variations as the bullet travels down the barrel....( Don't roast me here guys, this is just a quick explanation)
I guess as a reloader one must ask them selves if the amount of work it takes to anneal is worth the consistency and or brass life gained..
Is anneal a must for improving accuracy..I don't think so..I have some rifles that like light neck tension and some that don't..All I can say is try it and see what your targets tell you before you invest your valuable time with this process
I have found you will learn ( by feeling) when you reload if you over annealed your brass..I can tell when I run my cases through the sizing die if the necks are just how I like them ..If there is light tension I did good..If there mushy I went to long in the flame and my groups will open up..

Do all your case prep first, and clean your brass Take notes and play around with it..(You do not want the brass to glow red)
Set the flame just before the neck, shoulder juncture..Remove flame just before they brass glows..You will waist some brass to find this timing out...
My annealed brass shoots best during the second reloading after annealing..I think this has to do with the overly clean inside case necks making the bullet stick after annealing you kind of cook off all that good gunk..That makes the bullet slippy in the case neck..
Oh well..Maybe this gives you something to think about..Maybe not..And that's ok also..
Have fun with reloading and ask a bunch of questions..Gather up all the information you can, discard what you can't use.. and develop a process that works for your skill level, time configuration..And gets you results..If there no results on the target..What's the point

Last edited by 1coolcat; 04-17-2017 at 09:19 AM.
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2017, 12:01 AM
Harmon Harmon is offline
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Todd Kindlers annealing tip #2 works like a charm, no spinning the brass and it is really quick. I can do couple hundred in no time.
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