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  #11  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:41 AM
Chuck Miller Chuck Miller is offline
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Location: North Texas - Gods Country
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Default Mr. Low Tech

I'm in the same line as Daryl, snug up it give it a little bump and I'm done. I do clean the threads well, apply a little CLP and that's it, never had one loosen up when doing it this way. I do put a witness mark on it , sure makes it easier when removing. Watched a buddy who's a Savage junky and he really leans on it....he's also the same guy cussing up a storm when he has to pull it.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2012, 01:45 PM
rick w. rick w. is offline
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It takes a pretty good set of action wrench/barrel vise with machined bushings to pull a barrel that was set on with about 100 ft/lbs...........(nominal 0.090" hearsay). At least gracefully.

Goes on pretty easy really with the proper tools at that torque, but the coming off seems to be of an uphill battle, hence the necessity for said tooling. One wonders how the factory stuff is done, as it takes some grinning to get some of those barrels off, even without the factory sealants; most are pretty tight. I have a 30" wrench and weigh on a light day 240, me jumping on the wrench will not budge some of them, takes some impact usually.

If one switches in the field, then some thought might be given on what is tight.

I own only one Savage, a 110J, when the swift barrel really goes, it will get the shoulder treatment, and ditch the barrel nut apparatus.

I asked one time on the system that used a barrel thread sealant? and little if any torque. I was told it was a company secret and I did not need to know. I was trying to figure out if one of their rifle barrels could be pulled without heat or not. I never bought one.............
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