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  #11  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:35 AM
squirrel_slayer squirrel_slayer is offline
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what about a lyman M die to flare the mouth a touch? flat base bullets can be a bugger without a little flare.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2018, 12:43 PM
22_boomer 22_boomer is offline
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Originally Posted by squirrel_slayer View Post
what about a lyman M die to flare the mouth a touch? flat base bullets can be a bugger without a little flare.
Dang! I should have thought about that -- I have a case mouth flaring die. I guess since I've only used it with cast bullets it never crossed my mind. Thanks for that. For the two cases that got dinged I can cut the shorter and eliminate the damage and retry loading a bullet after I've flared the mouth.

Shortening the cases would not be a problem since I made these for low noise backyard target shooting and pest control. I had loaded up the cases in the picture with AA #9 from 4gr's to 5gr's of powder just to test their integrity. I'll probably just use a magnum primer and a few grains of fast pistol powder with light cast bullets and decrease the powder charge till the noise level is acceptable.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:53 PM
squirrel_slayer squirrel_slayer is offline
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if you have titegroup I've found it to be very forgiving on minimal charges and position insensitivity. I'd use that for your bunny fart loads.

ETA: you may want to work down till you find when you'll squib then bump it up a few tenths for safe measure. also I've been told that switching from copper to lead and back can strip lead off at a faster rate and cause issues. since it seems like the back yard CB level loads was the main scope of the project you may want to consider running lead solely and "season" the barrel before doing the squib check mentioned above.

if all goes well you should seldom ever need to clean the barrel. if you do keep in mind that you could potentially squib after a fresh cleaning so maybe have some 22mag level loads to re-foul/season the barrel before going back to the CB's. just a thought.

Last edited by squirrel_slayer; 07-25-2018 at 02:58 PM.
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2018, 01:03 PM
22_boomer 22_boomer is offline
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Originally Posted by squirrel_slayer View Post
if you have titegroup I've found it to be very forgiving on minimal charges and position insensitivity. I'd use that for your bunny fart loads.

ETA: you may want to work down till you find when you'll squib then bump it up a few tenths for safe measure. also I've been told that switching from copper to lead and back can strip lead off at a faster rate and cause issues. since it seems like the back yard CB level loads was the main scope of the project you may want to consider running lead solely and "season" the barrel before doing the squib check mentioned above.

if all goes well you should seldom ever need to clean the barrel. if you do keep in mind that you could potentially squib after a fresh cleaning so maybe have some 22mag level loads to re-foul/season the barrel before going back to the CB's. just a thought.
A friend gave me a bunch of lead buckshot in the #4 size and told me to push it through my .224" cast bullet sizer. I did just that and it makes some really nice little bullets but I have not had time to try them yet. I do believe I have some titegroup powder that I got just for reduced load shooting. I'll try that and work down to either were my squib load is or where I feel comfortable with the noise level. Thanks for the info on the copper and lead bullets maybe causing a problem. I really didn't want to shoot the good copper stuff anyway since it a true waist of a good bullet at the velocities I'll be shooting -- just didn't have any lead or cast in 22 caliber.
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2018, 06:54 PM
squirrel_slayer squirrel_slayer is offline
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dont forget to lube the "bullets" i've done what you mention with 00 buck in a 32 revolver. worked surprisingly well. I used lee liquid alox. but now use 45/45/10 lube which is far less messy.
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  #16  
Old 07-29-2018, 12:50 PM
22_boomer 22_boomer is offline
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Originally Posted by squirrel_slayer View Post
dont forget to lube the "bullets" i've done what you mention with 00 buck in a 32 revolver. worked surprisingly well. I used lee liquid alox. but now use 45/45/10 lube which is far less messy.
I know what you mean about the alox being messy -- I'll have to look into the 45/45/10 lube.
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2018, 06:18 PM
22_boomer 22_boomer is offline
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I've made posts here about the problem with finding the right cartridge but had not shown any pictures of what they will be shot in and with what.

This is an old 1945 H&R Topper in 20ga that I've shortened the barrel to 20" and built adapters to shoot my cartridge projects in. The adapter for the 22 magnum centerfire is shown below it. I can either shoot very quiet or load up and shot some really nice fast stuff. The adapter slides into the shotgun bore and is held in place with "O" rings on the front piece that sits right at the shotgun muzzle and on the chamber piece that also has a rim similar to a 20ga shell but with a cutout to keep the extractor from pushing the adapter out and a nail groove in the chamber piece so I can pick the cases out. I have added a rail that I use a red dot sight on. I also made a 22lr adapter for the same shotgun that has the cartridge centered and uses a chamber adapter that converts to centerfire firing pin to a rimfire firing pin location. this is the adapter that I use to shoot the little Colibri ammo with. This adapter's barrel is also supported and held in place with "O" rings at it's muzzle and chamber end. The 22lr adapter barrel is 16" long so there is less worry about a Colibri bullet not making it out of the barrel.
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