#1
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Bullet Lube
I have quite a few questions about making and using bullet swaging lubes. I'd appreciate input.
From what I've read, making the lube for the bullet swaging is done by adding the ingredients by weight. What is the best way to do this (postal scale, reloading scale)? I'm going to be using lanolin, lard oil and silicone oil to make the lube (recommended by a local bullet maker). Do I need to melt the ingredients to allow even mixing, or simply mix the ingredients until thouroughly mixed? When lubing jackets, how is the desired amount (again, measured by weight) added to the mix jar (smeared on the sides, warmed to make it flow easier, etc)? Thanks John |
#2
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First two...
The two old, pre-complicated, man-made chemicals, standard "high pressure lubes" are lanolin, a grease, and castor oil, an oil. You can use either straight and if they don't stand up, doubtful anything else will. Maybe, but -???.
WW I aircraft flew on castor oil. Only oil they had that would "stand up" to the airplane engine. Engines leaked A LOT! That is the reason for the scarf and goggles and the grease blackened faces around the goggles... Some say the airfields smelled like a cheap diner with all that overcooked vegetable oil... For mixing a "double boiler" is nice. Don't borrow the wife's. Hit the thrift stores and find an old beat-up one. You boil water in the lower pan and mix your goods in the upper pan over boiling (or hot) water. No, you do not "have to." You can mix things cold, just takes more elbow grease. You want the exercise? In Alaska it might keep you warm most of the winter. "Lard oil?" O.K. All these are "natural" products and if you leave them out where it is warm, they may "spoil." Rot? Decompose. I would keep a tight lid on and maybe in a refridgerator if it is hot, hot, hot. No exact idea what "lard oil" is, but if it is from pig fat... I would not be inclined to use it. Silicone oil? No idea. Some formulas, Corona Ointment and Bag Balm, add mercury, tiny amount, as a preservative and disinfectant--like mercurichrome. Bag balm is for milk cows with sore teats... With the war on mercury batteries, I was suprised they survived, but still out last I looked. There was a ratio of 4 oz castor oil to 16 oz of lanolin given on another board. You can have about any consistency you desire. Maybe more liquid for "lube pad" use...(old, inkless stamp pad. You can use an old, dried, inked pad, just makes your fingers more colorful...). Or go straight lanolin and work it into the pad, again, more elbow grease. How much. One collection of suggestions from top flight bullet makers (on the net) talks of weighing an amount onto a piece of waxed paper--reloading scale I believe, tossing it in with a number of jackets and tumbling it on. The most obvious is to just roll the jacket over a lube pad or grease your fingers an rub it around. How precise a bullet do you want to make? I am sure that there are as many opinions as noses (or other parts of the anatomy). Obviously, Mr. Dave Corbin, corbins.com, is the most talkative about the subject. He has books on his web site for download or review... sans pictures... and he takes email questions. Then there are the users of his equipment in his directory of bullet makers... Someone in your area might be of great assistance... His brother Richard, rceco.com, is less talkative. luck |
#3
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i'd not recommend silicone oil.
Castor oil and lanolin is what we use. We mixed up a pretty big batch and then put it into large syringes or into small tupperware containers. I am thinking that we used a 1:1 ration but would have to confirm that with my notes. For weighing we use a piece of wax paper on a Denver Instruments xx123 scale after resetting the tare with the piece of paper on the scale. The lube is then transferred to the 1 gallon glass tumble jug that has paddles glued to the inside to aid in tumbling.
We did use heat to mix our lube evenly, i believe in the microwave actually. Silicone oil, not for me. how do you intend on degreasing your bullets to get it off. You will need some pretty nasty solvents to break down and remove the Silicone oil - I believe. \ For core squirting lube, RCBS water soluble case lube is what we use. Our cores are rinsed and boiled using a detergent to help clean and oxidize them once they have been formed by the squirt die. |
#4
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I use 4 parts lanolin to 1 part castor oil by weight. I mixed up about a quart of this stuff a few months ago. Messy to measure and mix, but it keeps and works well.
Michael
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When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my gear for what I told her I paid for it. |
#5
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Thanks for all of the great inputs. I'm trying to make the best bullets I can (benchrest competition quality). Actually, I'd like to make bullets as good as the ones made by my local maker. He uses silicone oil in his mix. I believe he cleans the new bullets in naptha. His bullets come out pristine. His dies obviously like his recipe - his bullets shoot great. Trying not to re-create the wheel.
John |
#6
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Bullet making lube
Besides all the excellent advice you've received here, try asking ypur "local bullet maker" how he mixes his lube. Sounds like he isn't trying to keep any secrets from you.
PS Jim, Apple told me you use baby oil.
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DocEd |
#7
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50-50 lanolin and vasoline , or 4-1 ratio lanolin 4 parts to 1 part lard oil.lard oil has been used in the die trade for drawing metals for many years it can be used alone for bullet lube but its a little to runny to me. are your dies steel or carbide ? and what caliber are you going to make? george
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#8
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#9
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A note about the silicone oil
The late Skip Otto gave me his recipe for lube a long time ago. I tried it against the lube i got with my dies, and the bullets came out of the point-up die much easier. I tried it without the silicone oil, and it was clear that something was amiss.
Skip's recipe: (all mixing done @ room temp) 4 oz. anhydrous lanolin 1/2 tablespoon silicone oil lard oil as needed to reach "consistancy of room temperature butter." The oil is from Ricoh corp. It is labeled "Ricoh silicone oil for FT series copiers." I had to order it from the nearest Ricoh store, which is about 50 miles away. It cost me around $35 for 16oz about 8 years ago. I have had no problem removing the lube from the finished bullets. I do not wash my bullets anyway, I just put them in a big towel and buff them with kind of a sawing motion. I have been told by some top shooters that a film of lube is not detrimental; but actually seems to help keep copper fouling to a minimum. I wish you well in your bullet making adventure. Shooting well with your own bullets is very satisfying... -Dave- |
#10
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